Re: Aquatint Screens.

Gerry,
It doesn't really matter what you scan the image at, because you can use the
Image>Image Size> screen and change the resolution to 600 ppi, if you need
to. I had read to have the image at 600 ppi when using solarplate, so that
is what I kept my resolution at. Then, I do all my adjustments in the
channels or channel mixer (in RGB) to the point where it looks good on
screen as a BW image. Then convert to grayscale, then Image>Mode
>Bitmap>600>600>Diffusion Dither. Then I print it in black ink only on the
Epson 2200, as is (positive). It works beautifully, as the grain of the
bitmap is similar to the "grain" of the inks and yet my image is sharper
than sharp, even down to the pine needles on the bed of the forest floor
being incredibly sharp.

I will say, though, Gerry, that a lot of the problems with solarplate is
developing a correct time of exposure and development routine, whether by
brush or by chamois, how long in the water, etc. etc. and that has come
about by sweat, blood and tears over 4 semesters now refining the process.
AND learning correct inking--solarplates need to be rubbed quite well, so
that the highlights are wiped clean, for instance.

Now, not to confuse the situation, I am working out a curve and PDN neg with
Mark Nelson's system, too, using a colorized neg. I have not finished that
calibration process yet as schoolwork keeps intervening (funny that should
happen) but my guess is, with his method I may coincide it with Henrik
Boegh's method of printing the neg in a halftone screen where he says
select File>Print with Preview. Click Screen button and set your Halftone
screen to 65 lines/cm, angle 45 degrees, and shape diamond. The reason why I
think Mark's system is best, is that one solarplate I did with a negative I
derived from his process was nice and creamy and smooth in tone, really
beautiful, except for the open bite that occurred in the dark areas. Hence
the need to go back and fiddle with the halftone screen stuff in conjunction
with finding the perfect curve and color of neg with Mark's process. When
that is done, every single one of my solarplates will print at the exact
same time, regardless of image, and there will be no guesswork.
Chris

From: "Gerry Giliberti" <GGiliberti@controlotron.com>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2005 10:57 AM
Subject: RE: Aquatint Screens.

> Christina,
>
> I'm not sure if I understand how you make the bit map image for the
> aquatint
> screen. Using Photoshop 7.0 for an IBM, is it:
>
> 1. Scan the image at 600 dpi first to establish the input resolution, then
> click
> 2. Mode> Grayscale (Discard color information? click [OK])
> 3. Click Mode> Bitmap
> 4. Input resolution from scan is at 600 pixels/inch and then type in:
> Output:[600] pixels/inch
>
> In your method, do you leave the default [Diffusion Dither] on or do you
> select [Halftone Screen] next? If you select [Halftone Screen], what
> frequency, angle and shape settings do you set it at for making the Solar
> Plate aquatint screen?
>
> Gerry G
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Christina Z. Anderson [mailto:zphoto@bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2005 9:06 AM
> To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> Subject: Re: Aquatint Screens.
>
>
> Forget it, Oody; just bitmap your image at input 600 dpi and output 600
> dpi.
>
> It looks great. I don't use a screen at all anymore.
> Chris
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ehud Yaniv" <eyaniv@telus.net>
> To: "Alt-Photo-Process-L" <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2005 1:44 AM
> Subject: OT: Aquatint Screens.
>
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Does anyone here know how to make an aquatint screen with Photoshop. I
>> have
>> decided to try making a solarplate from a photo.
>>
>> Oody
>>
>> __________
>> Ehud Yaniv
>> Still Light Photography
>> www.still-light.com
>>
>>
>
>
>
Received on Wed Feb 23 11:03:02 2005