Re: a film question

From: Jack Fulton ^lt;jefulton1@comcast.net>
Date: 01/28/05-12:10:43 AM Z
Message-id: <a786dc3241f2b45b9eb2e1f48dbc6acd@comcast.net>

Keith:
        All color reversal requires a b/w first development. The E6 1st
developer is proprietary and seems to be a good lowered contrast with
anti-fogging properties. You can develop your E6 film in it, rinse and
stop and dry and then send to, say Munich and have the process
finished.
        Taking that into account you can develop the film in the 1st
developer, stop and I'd think at that point you could use a basic Rapid
Fix to remove the unwanted silver and you'd have a negative.
        Going further w/my thinking for I've not done this . . the way color
reversal works is to (again) develop up the b/w negative image. then
through light exposure, or in the case of E6, adding a fogging agent
which is the reversal step (this is stannous chloride and not a healthy
product) the remaining halides are fogged and ready for more
development as in any reversal process. but this time they are
developed in a color coupling developer to create the color. Then both
bleach and fixer are used to remove all silver particles.
        Okay, employing that thinking you might try developing in the first
developer. then you have the b/w negative. Then try a reversal bleach
to remove THAT silver material .. or, rather, bleach it out. Then clear
that with a solution of sodium sulfite. Then subject it to light of any
kind and develop in Dektol.
        Now, if that works you know the idea is sound. I can then provide you
with the formulae (unless you have them already) for the basic film
reversal bleach and re-developer.
        Another caution is that the bleach contains sulfuric acid (available
at any motorcycle shop).
        You can also use Sodium Sulfide (stinky and not healthy also) to
re-develop virtually immediately with a warm tone.
Jack Fulton

On Jan 27, 2005, at 1:26 PM, Keith Gerling wrote:

I don't want the added hassle of messing with color chemistry and I've
got a large quantity of outdated E6 film.  Short of doing what one is
supposed to do: soup it in E6 or cross-process in C41, is there any way
I can get a B&W image, positive or negative, by using B&W chemistry? 
Judging by the one roll I processed with Rodinal (which resembles
fogged B&W), the prospect doesn't look good, but I thought someone here
might have a suggestion.  
 
Keith

Nature wears one universal grin.
        Henry Fielding
Received on Fri Jan 28 00:09:35 2005

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