Eric
Your contact printing frame will work but you are right, there is no way to
lift the glass to see how the exposure is doing without shifiting the
negative. But let me suggest something yoy can do.
Go and buy a siple wooden 8x10 frame with the glass. Carefully measure the
inside of the frame a cut a piece of 1/4 inch plywood to fit inside the
back. Now cut the plywood again down the middle
so you have two 8 x 5 inch pieces. Go to the hardware store and but some
very small brass hinges
and use them to make a hinged back. Go to a fabric store and buy a piece of
black felt and cut it to fit' the non-hinged side of the plywood and glue it
on. Now you will need to go back to the hardware store and look for some
hardware that looks sort of like a butterfly with a hole in the middle. Get
about four of these and the screws. They go on the back of the picture frame
and swivel to hold the plywood in place. You now will have an inexpensive
contact frame that works pretty well. I made several of these when I was
younger and had less money.
Good luck,
Bob Schramm
Check out my web page at:
<br><br><br>>From: Eric Maquiling
<emaquiling@gmail.com><br>>Reply-To:
alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca<br>>To:
alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca<br>>Subject: contact frame
question<br>>Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2005 09:25:46 -0700<br>><br>>Hi
all,<br>>I am poor :) but I know I will eventually get an 8x10 or 11x14
contact frame<br>>later on when I get my 8x10 camera. However, I want to
start practicing on<br>>smaller negs (6x6 and 6x9's and some Polaroid
posi/negs).<br>><br>>Could I just use my contact printing thing that I
use to make contact sheets<br>>from 35mm and 120 film. You know those
things with glass on a hinge and foam<br>>on the bottom. Trying to
figure out how I can lift the glass and see the<br>>process happening
(I'll be doing Van Dykes for
now).<br>><br>>TIA!<br>>--<br>><br>>Eric<br>
Received on Sat Jul 2 19:43:47 2005
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