Re: fixing salt prints

Thanks Eric. Great resource!!! I found the appropriate chapter and must now read it. :-) JT

--
Judy Rowe Taylor
Mukilteo, WA
Art is a voice of the heart, a song of the soul.
www.enduringibis.com
jude.taylor@comcast.net or judyrowetaylor@enduringibis.com
> I am forgetting if there's a reason not to use Kodak
> fixer but you can find if there is a reason, short of
> testing it, in Reilly's book online which is
> searchable.
> <<http://albumen.stanford.edu/library/monographs/reilly/>>
>  I've never tried it.
> 
> There is info there also in how to maintain your
> silver nitrate solution as far as replenishment and
> kaolin treatment.  It should last for years.  
> 
> As you sensitize salt and albumen prints, the
> organics, gelatin and albumen, will darken the
> solution and make it less and less usuable.  Kaolin
> powder will remove that discolorization and settle to
> the bottom.  There is an illustration of a siphon
> apparatus to remove the decolorized solution without
> disturbing the powdered layer at the bottom here as
> well as intstructions on kaolin treatment. 
> <<http://albumen.stanford.edu/library/monographs/reilly/chap6.html>>
> 
> Eric Nelson
> http://www.archival-photo.net
> http://www.eman-photo.com
> 
> --- David Barker <dbarker_ca@yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> > Hi Judy,
> > 
> > I've mostly used plain hypo (10% no other
> > additives),
> > but I think I have also used kodak rapid fix and it
> > worked fine if I recall correctly. If you tone the
> > prints you may need to use a different fix depending
> > on the pH of the toner. I usually fix for 5-8
> > minutes.
> > 
> > Is it possible you are not washing sufficiently
> > before
> > fixing? You have to get rid of all the unreacted
> > silver salt by washing in tap water until you don't
> > see any white precipitate coming off any more (and
> > then some).
> > 
> > My silver nitrate solution must be going on a year
> > or
> > more old and it still seems to work fine. I can't
> > think of anything that would hurt it over time in an
> > opaque bottle, except that it'll probably get more
> > concentrated with use.
> > 
> > David Barker
> > 
> > 
> > --- jude.taylor@comcast.net wrote:
> > 
> > > Anyone out there tried regular Kodak fixer (with
> > its
> > > assorted chemical mix) for fixing salt prints? 
> > All
> > > the recipes I have found call for plain sodium
> > > thiosulfate (a.k.a. hypo) either 10% with 2%
> > sodium
> > > bicarb (Wynn White, James) or 5% Na thiosulfate
> > wtih
> > > a bit of Na carbonate (Webb and Reed).
> > > 
> > > Also, I have on hand Hustler Rapid Clear;
> > directions
> > > say to used diluted 4 oz (120 ml) per gallon
> > water. 
> > > Should this be adequate to clear salt prints?  
> > > 
> > > I have tried a couple of prints and they do not
> > seem
> > > to have cleared adequately.  Or maybe I used the
> > > Kodak fixer too dilute and not long enough (2:1
> > > stock fixer: water; two baths for 2
> > > minutes....minimal fading so maybe it is not
> > strong
> > > enough or long enough on the fixing?)  A masked
> > > border around the print that was paper white last
> > > night is light gray this morning in the dry
> > prints!
> > > Sigh!  
> > > 
> > > About how long will the silver nitrate sensitizer
> > > remain"usable" stored in an amber bottle in the
> > dark
> > > (2 or 3 days, a week?) as there is no way I am
> > > likely to use up a full recipe in an initial
> > > printing attempt (I did make up a smaller batch
> > and
> > > may do 1/4 recipe next time until I get it
> > right!).
> > > 
> > > Thanks!
> > > Judy
> > > 
> > > --
> > > Judy Rowe Taylor
> > > Mukilteo, WA
> > > Art is a voice of the heart, a song of the soul.
> > > www.enduringibis.com
> > > jude.taylor@comcast.net or
> > > judyrowetaylor@enduringibis.com
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 		
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