Re: Lumin prints tests

I actually spoke with Burchfield this March at the National Society for
Photographic Education Conference, and he did say that he fixed his images,
then they were scanned.
Another thing I forgot to mention, is that with plants that have a VERY high
moisture content (i.e. aquatic plants, like many of mine have been, and many
of Burchfields are), the paper buckles and warps and the wet emulsion side
of the paper comes into contact with glass, and if left long enough, the
gelatin coating of the paper makes an excellent glue that is near impossible
to remove, and it ends up tearing the emulsion off of the paper base. I've
been trying different methods to solve this problem, but haven't come up
with anything yet. I've tried placing cardboard, printing blotter paper,
newspaper, paper towels, towels, and tissue under the paper to maybe absord
some of the moisture off the emulsion, but nothing has worked. I'm thinking
I'm just going to have to live with it. Although, there was one print that
had glued itself to the glass and I used a razor blade to kind of scrape the
emulsion off the glass, and it worked out fine. But that print wasn't fused
as bad as some others that have gotten glued. It's very frustrating.
I've been working on getting all of my prints scanned and corrected to put
up on my website. As soon as I get that done (hopefully this weekend), I
will post it on here.

Good luck,
Andy

On 9/6/05, Christina Z. Anderson <zphoto@montana.net> wrote:
>
> George, et al,
> My student is trying to put a call into Burchfield to ask the question:
> are
> the book's images, in fact, SCANNED unfixed prints, that are later fixed,
> or
> are they apres fixed? If, after all this, I find out that they are scanned
> before fixing, I'm going to feel cheated! But maybe, after all, in this
> digital age, this is a great idea??
>
> I think the person who put moisture as a factor is probably right on.
> Maybe
> even heat? In the equatorial sun?
>
> Thanks all of you for posting so much. Today I gave the student a jar of
> sodium thiosulfate and sodium carbonate so she can mix her own alkaline
> fix
> and see if that alleviates the bleaching. It's a semester long project so
> when she starts her discovery, I'll post. Thanks, Andy Duncan, for your
> input, too.
> Chris
>
> >I should have tried some Forte during my tests this weekend. Forte
> accepts
> > toner better than any paper I know of. I'll have to give this a shot
> > soon.
> >
> > I found Ilford WT to give nice colors, but also lose them after fixing
> and
> > toning. I am not sure if there is a way to keep them or not. Also, I
> > have
> > been using either dead leaves or negatives, thus no transfer of color to
> > the
> > paper. Perhaps my next few will involve some flowers so that this can be
> > examined.
> > Cheers -
> > george
>
> >> All,
> >> My initial experiments for the Lumin prints were on Forte Warm Tone
> (stil
> >> good for B&W printing). This is the most amazing paper (I have not
> tried
> >> Ilford WT yet) with exposed areas dark blue and shadows red to pink. I
> >> place the plants under the glass, but not in a contact frame. Under
> >> Houston sun, the plants release plenty of moisture and I can see the
> >> moist
> >> areas of the paper take a different color during exposure. I exposed
> some
> >> Forte polygrade, the result was much more of a brownish print. Most
> >> dissappointing was the Agfa MCC Classic, dull, muddy print.
> >> Marek, Houston
> >>
> >> > George,
> >> > all those test prints are on Ilford Warm Tone FB, straight out of the
> >> > plastic bag
> >> > FWIW, I'm waiting for about a week to fix them (top row), then see if
> >> > there is any improvement in the rentention of the beautiful colors
> >> > Darryl Baird
> >> >
> >> > -----Original Message-----
> >> > From: George L Smyth [mailto:glsmyth@yahoo.com]
> >> > Subject: Re: Lumin prints tests
> >> > I played around with the some today. The results I got were not as
> >> > even as I
> >> > would have thought. I tried Ilford MGIV, Ilford Warm Tone, and two
> >> > sheets of
> >> > Brovira. I placed decayed leaved on reach and placed within frames.
> >> > I
> >> > expected the different papers to give me varied results, but the two
> >> > sheets of
> >> > Brovira came out differently, which I thought was odd. I got some
> >> > nice
> >> > coloration with one of them (though not nearly to the extent as the
> >> > images in
> >> > the link provided, which makes me wonder if they were treated with
> >> > S2/S30 -
> >> > unfortunately, most of the color went away with fixing and toning)
> but
> >> > nothing
> >> > with the other. Exposure time was about six or seven hours, with some
> >> > of the
> >> > time not being in direct sunlight.
> >> > Alas, like one other poster I, too, tossed several hundred sheets of
> >> > expired
> >> > paper about nine months ago in my attempt to reduce clutter. Perhaps
> >> > eBay will
> >> > be helpful inthat regard. I will try again tomorrow with some other
> >> > ideas and
> >> > perhaps my results will be a little more interesting.
> >> > Cheers -
> >> > george
>
>
>
Received on Tue Sep 6 21:43:54 2005