RE: What are the advantages of using Cyanotype as the first layer for tri-color gum prints? Paper Problems...

Also, even if I didn't try it for gum, the more textured backside (for
"tooth" letting gum attach) of Cot320 may work well. That paper is perfect
for Cyanotypes. I just made a 10 prints portfolio on it - absolutely
wonderful. It clears very quick, it's very bright, the color is beatiful, it
doesn't need acetic acid treatment or citric acid addition to the coating
emulsion. But the paper is very smooth, I wouldn't try gum-bichromate on its
smooth side (back side looks OK for gum). But again, I didn't try it for
gum.

Regards,
Loris.

-----Original Message-----
From: Loris Medici [mailto:loris_medici@mynet.com]
Sent: 17 Eylül 2005 Cumartesi 22:31
To: 'alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca'
Subject: RE: What are the advantages of using Cyanotype as the first layer
for tri-color gum prints? Paper Problems...

Carmen,

You can also try to add citric acid into the coating emulsion. If it works
that way, you will get rid of one extra step: acidifying the paper + waiting
for drying (if you don't acidify paper in batches). For papers that doesn't
work with Cyanotype 2 emulsion I tried this solution (which was provided by
a helpful list-member when I asked for help on Cyanotype 2) and it worked
very well. To make a coating solution, I was adding a drop of 40% citric
acid per 10 drops of Cyanotype 2 emulsion.

Regards,
Loris.

-----Original Message-----
From: Carmen Lizardo [mailto:carmenlizardo@yahoo.com]
Sent: 17 Eylül 2005 Cumartesi 21:32
To: Alt Photo
Subject: What are the advantages of using Cyanotype as the first layer for
tri-color gum prints? Paper Problems...

Dear List:

What are the advantages of using Cyanotype as the first layer for tri-color
gum prints? And, which paper is good to use with the cyano-gum process?
I am asking because I bought many sheets of 300 LB Fabriano Artistic and
Arches Aquarelle paper, and the paper did not work for cyanotype. The
cyonotype emulsion turned blue-green when dried had blue spots and after
exposing, the emulsion would wash off almost completely, leaving a very
faint print with blue spots. Judy suggested trying acidifying the paper. I
did not have any acid except white distilled vinegar, which I used, mixed
1:1 with distilled water, and that seemed to resolve the problem (thanks
Judy!). I did test the paper with a gum print using thalo blue watercolor
and it cleared fine on pre-shrunk, un-sized paper. I am using 300 lb paper
because I am making very large gum prints and the lighter paper was falling
apart when soaked in very hot water. Maybe there is a lighter weight paper
that is cheaper than the 300 lb and will work well for 22x30" gum prints?

Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Carmen

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Received on Sat Sep 17 13:38:21 2005