Re: Cyanotype

Hi David,
I recently mixed a batch of cyanotype of the green type ( I used the brown
type 20 years ago and last year used the 'new'Ware solution which was
difficult to mix. The green brushes on greener than the brown and the War'es
soluttions did... I mixed the classic ala C. Jamesas per his book which has
a lot more Fe.Ammonic and Ferricyanide solution than the 'old' one of the W.
Crawford's formula. The prints were very bleached even after 30 minutes
under the UV printer. I used the sun last year and did better with the Ware
solution. 20 years ago I was on city water- I am on my hard water (well
water) and wonder why nothing looks good?
I can't afford to waste materials as I have to get them form the States. (I
live in Canada).
Do you have an idea what is wrong- I do dev. the negatives in Pyro- and 20
years ago- I didn't...
Thanks, Susan
www.susanhuber.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David & Jan Harris" <david.j.harris2@ntlworld.com>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 2:33 PM
Subject: Re: Cyanotype

Tom

Yes I am in a hard water area. I have tried a vinegar pre-soak, but vinegar
development seems more effective with my water.

David
----- Original Message -----
From: "T.E. Andersen" <postlister@microscopica.com>
To: <alt-photo-process-L@usask.ca>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: Cyanotype

> Hello David and Loris,
>
> Are you sure these problems are not related to buffer (CaCO3) in the
> paper, or hard water? If you are using buffered paper, it may be an
> option to treat the paper in vinegar (or citric acid) prior to coating,
> followed by washing in soft water. That way, the acid would not be mixed
> with the other chemicals. (I have not tried it, but have thought about
> it as a way to get rid of buffer in paper).
>
> Best regards,
> Tom Einar
>
>
> David & Jan Harris wrote:
> > Possibly. It does flatten the contrast, which can be a benefit depending
on
> > what negative you are using. It certainly protects the highlights which
used
> > to disappear during drying before we started using vinegar. We solved
the
> > bleeding problem by leaving the coated paper to dry for about 1 hour
after
> > coating, actually this helped improve the dmax too. I've no idea why it
> > prevents the bleeding, but it does for us.
> >
> > David
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Loris Medici" <mail@loris.medici.name>
> > To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
> > Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 3:30 PM
> > Subject: RE: Cyanotype
> >
> >
> > Slightly IME (white vinegar 1:3) and it has a very bad effect on
> > contrast (very flat prints) plus I experienced serious bleeding (blue
> > wash water) trying this. Perhaps our results vary due to the difference
> > between our water/paper/whatnot?
> >
> > Thanks anyway.
> > Regards,
> > Loris.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: David & Jan Harris [mailto:david.j.harris2@ntlworld.com]
> > Sent: 16 Şubat 2006 Perşembe 17:10
> > To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> > Subject: Re: Cyanotype
> >
> >
> > Loris
> >
> > Have you tried developing traditional cyanotype in vinegar solution? We
> > find it greatly increases dmax.
> >
> > David
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
Received on Fri Feb 17 18:57:03 2006