Yes. Use formaldehyde. It works great and will not yellow the paper. Be
careful and use very good ventilation, ideally outdoors.
Dave in Wyoming
----- Original Message -----
From: "Yves Gauvreau" <gauvreau-yves@sympatico.ca>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 6:46 PM
Subject: Re: Glyoxal?
> Thanks Christina,
>
> are there other ways (other stuff) to harden the gelatine without causing
a
> change in color and I assume doing all of this we must keep a neutral ph
or
> whatever is best for archival.
>
> Regards
> Yves
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Christina Z. Anderson" <zphoto@montana.net>
> To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
> Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 4:11 PM
> Subject: Re: Glyoxal?
>
>
> > but I don't bother to rinse
> > > as a step in the sizing process because the development bath in the
gum
> > > process restores the paper to the original pristine white. So I don't
> see
> > > any necessity for a separate rinse. But you'll need to see if that
> works
> > > with your paper, or not.
> > > Katharine
> >
> > Yves,
> > Sorry to disagree here but there are a number of us on the list that
> cannot
> > get that stain out no matter how much we soak it, breathe on it, sit on
> it,
> > look at it. You can do what you want, but don't say we didn't warn you
:)
> > If I wanted a dull ivory paper to print on, I would have bought it that
> way
> > to begin with. It is unacceptable to me, but you may be one of the
> blessed
> > ones that don't get glyoxal yellowing. Pretty soon on my website I will
> > have an image of glyoxal yellowing to show you what I mean. However, my
> > guess is it is paper dependent, and perhaps related to my paper choice
> > coupled with my water supply. The point being, for some of us the
yellow
> > does not disappear once it is there.
> > Chris
> >
>
>
Received on Thu Jan 12 20:25:09 2006
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