RE: gold print

Loris,

Try bathing the print for about 5 minutes in standard Dektol (or any other
paper developer) and wash well. I discovered this technique for stabilizing
gold toned platinum prints. They would brown in the highlights overnight but
this treatment cleared out the residual gold causing the staining. It sounds
like it should work here as well.

--Dick Sullivan

-----Original Message-----
From: Loris Medici [mailto:mail@loris.medici.name]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 2:36 PM
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Subject: RE: gold print

Hi Marek,

Here's my first print:
http://www.loris.medici.name/gold/casamilo_chrysotype.jpg
(please save it to your hd and open with an ICC aware application in order
to view it correctly)

The emulsion is very high contrast, therefore:

1) the curve is very flat and extreme = I'm loosing tones
2) it shows the printer's weaving pattern very clearly = ugly

On the other hand, since the emulsion is very high contrast the sharpness is
incredible. It's the sharpest emulsion I've ever used (I'm comparing it to
New Cyanotype and Ziatype - and it's definitely better).

I will try it with a high-contrast image with lots of texture too...

Will try to use another color from the CDRP (PDN system), I'm currently
using R 255, G 0, B 50 with Epson 1290 OEM inks and my SPT is 6 mins. It
seems that my SPT also is off (I confused the overexposed / bronzed parts
being dmax in the visual inspection). Will do some more tests in order to
establish more correct SPT and negative color (this may improve the curve ->
leading to better tonality). Will also try to realign my printer's head just
in case... Anyway, I think I won't be getting good-to-me results if I can't
find a way to lower the emulsion's contrast.

My emulsion consist of:

Part A - Gold:
7% KAuCl4

Part B - Iron Sensitizer:
14% Ammonium Iron(III) Oxalate

I mix 2A:1B. One should first measure gold, then add sensitizer to it -
doing the other way will cause precipitation.

50-55% RH, 22-24C, 1 hour drying time, 20-30 secs hot air drying, exposure
w/BL tubes.

1-2% oxalic acid development for 1 min.

2 x 2 mins. clearing in 1-2% citric acid.

10mins. rinse in plain tap water (chaning it every minute).

There's definitely a problem in my clearing method; when the
cleared/rinsed/dryed print is put under the BL tubes for 4-5 minutes, the
unmasked whites show tone the next day... Just obtained tetrasodium EDTA and
will try with that also. In my following trials I will totally eliminate
oxalic acid (will develop in citric acid) and will try to clear in
tetrasodium EDTA.

Marek yes! -> I'm very interested in your method. Can you please provide
info about your method? I would be very glad if you take the trouble to look
at your notes.

TIA, greetings from Istanbul,
Loris.

-----Original Message-----
From: Marek Matusz [mailto:marekmatusz@hotmail.com]
Sent: 17 Haziran 2006 Cumartesi 19:55
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Subject: RE: gold print

Loris,
The test print is kind of grainy. This might be a beautiful effect for some
pictures. You are definitely getting good, nice DMax that gold can produce
at high humidity. If you are interested I can look up some of my old notes
on chrysotype. I did a lot of work and came up with a good and simple
working system that requires no ligand, although I still like Ware's method.

Meant to write it up for Malin's site, but never managed to do it. Maybe it
is time.
Marek
Received on 06/17/06-08:42:37 PM Z