Re: Iron

From: Venkatram Iyer ^lt;eyeear@telus.net>
Date: 03/28/06-10:12:08 PM Z
Message-id: <44bd671bacb8fb31f9c14ff7d589aac2@telus.net>

Mark, Kerik,

I have had problems consistently clearing Satista prints made on BFK,
using a mix of warm Na4EDTA + citric acid (2% of each). However, Cot
and Arches Platine clear to paper base with ease.
I would like to try Permawash with BFK. What brand of Permawash do you
use, and how many sq. inches does a 4oz/gallon solution clear?
I found the use of Kodak's HCA after fixing with Ilford's Hypam
bleached the print. Switching to sodium thiosulfate has eliminated this
problem.

Thanks. Rajul

On 28-Mar-06, at 12:06 PM, Ender100@aol.com wrote:

>
> Kerik,
>
> I've been using Permawash with PT/PD prints for about 2 years now and
> find (especially with COT 320) it really clears quite quickly.  I use
> 4 oz / gal instead of the recommended 3 oz and use  3 trays
> and try to keep the temperature higher than room temperature.  I also
> really like it because it comes in liquid form and I don't have to mix
> a powder.
>
>
> Mark Nelson
> Precision Digital Negatives
>
>
> In a message dated 3/27/06 9:34:40 AM, kerik@kerik.com writes:
>
>
>
>> I think the issue may be that EDTA by itself doesn't work very well
>> for 
>> clearing pt/pd. I've had many comments from workshop students who
>> had 
>> previously tried EDTA alone and reported such problems, but adding
>> sodium 
>> sulfite to the mix did the trick. Approx one tablespoon each of EDTA
>> and 
>> sodium sulfite per liter works well on most papers, as does Kodak
>> Hypo 
>> Clearing Agent and Heico Permawash.
>>
>> Kerik
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Received on Tue Mar 28 22:12:38 2006

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