Re: fixing vandyke prints

Carson Graves x4692 3NE (carson@zama.hq.ileaf.com)
Fri, 16 Jun 95 09:35:36 EDT

> From: "Catherine Rogers" <CROGERS@aadmin.mur.csu.edu.au>
>
> Re fixing vandyke prints, using an emulsion formula that does not use a
> developer, but water wash and fix.
> Has anyone out there experimented with a good working dilution of
> hypam as a substitute for sodium thiosulphate? I have been
> successfully using one tablespoon sodium thiosulphate per litre of
> water formula courtesy of
> Carson Graves (whose vandyke emulsion formula I have been using since 1978 I think it
> is - gives great print quality by the way). But i have now run out of the right
stuff and need an
> emergency substitution!
> many thanks in anticipation of a flood of information,
> Catherine Rogers.
>

Wow...

You were at MPW, right?

I'm sure that there are people who are more current on this than I,
but since I got you into it in the first place, I guess I'm
responsible :-)

Hypam is Ilford's version of rapid fix, as I recall (it isn't too
popular in the US). Just guessing, but I'd be a little concerned about
using an ammonia thiosulfate fix instead of sodium, but if that's all
you have, then a little experimenting might be in order.

At its normal working strength, you will probably find that Hypam is too
strong & will destroy the image. You could dilute it, first by half,
then 1:2, and so on, to see its effect on the image. Once you find a
dilution that doesn't harm the image, then your next concern is whether
or not the image is fixed enough. Try cutting a test print in half and
putting one piece in a dark place and exposing the other to strong day
light (avoiding direct sunlight). If there is any undissolved, non-image
silver, I would expect it to print out after a few hours and become visible
as a brown fog.

This is probably not the best answer, but it should give you a direction
to pursue.

Happy printing,
Carson Graves
carson@ileaf.com