Need Help on Masking!!!

Eustoquia Carrillo (carrillo@buzon.main.conacyt.mx)
Sat, 1 Jul 1995 20:21:23 -0500

First of all this message is being sent to the alt-photo and Photoforum
lists, so excuse me for any repetition. Also excuse me for posting to this
lists, none of which is "normal" darkroom oriented. However I do not know
any list Pro-Darkroom, Photo-Lab-Worker, etc. Finally you would have to
excuse my use of the English language and the length of the post. If for any
reason you can not excuse any or all of the above fell free to either
expunge this message or to contact me personally, :-).

I am having a very difficult time sorting out this procedure. I would
really appreciate some feedback from people with experience. I am printing
some 4X5 slides on Ilfochrome Rapid paper.

Some background here: this paper is developed in P4 chemicals and is
produced by Ilford. It is professional material and I have not seen it
advertised nowhere in the USA. I have been a printer for some time in a
not-so-good-lab and now I have started as an independent printer. I have an
Ilford ICP processor (CAP-40 but with variable speed and temperature)
because development time runs for 35 seconds only (same for bleach and fix).
This material is the equivalent to R-3, R-3000 (so-so blacks and lots of
contrast). To this day I have managed the contrast problem by the
traditional dodging and burning.

Now the slides I have to print are extremely complex. By burning and
dodging I can manage a good job. The problem is that from this same slides a
book is going to be printed (the enlargements, 16X20, are going to be for
the presentation of such book). I have just seen some proofs for the book
(here they are called "cromalines" and I do not know how to translate the
term) and my contrast is way off. In the computer they have managed to
squeeze every last detail both in the shadows and the highlights. As you can
see my only choice is to mask the originals.

For the last two days I have been at it with very little to show. First
there is no way I can get the specialty films recommended by Kodak and by
every other author (Pan Masking Film 4570, etc.). Nobody in Kodak Mexico
knew anything about it, what it was for, etc. One guy told me that those
films were discontinued by Kodak Rochester in the 50's. Another guy found
the 1993 catalog and told me that they do not stock such films but that he
would be delighted to order it for me as long as I ordered at least
$3,000.00 dollars worth!!!!(That is the minimum for a special order). So I
have to use Kodalith Ortho and develop in Neutol 1+20 or Dektol 1+5 to get
continuos tone. If anyone suggests using some kind of normal sheet film
(T-Max 100 or FP-100 being the choices for grain reasons, I can also get my
hands on T-Max 400 and HP-5), the reason I do not use them is because of the
speed (to fast) and the base color. I think Tech-pan has an almost clear
base, but again I would have to order $3,000.00 worth of it (Kodak Mexico
only brings in 135-36 rolls).

I have managed to get some good masks by directly contactprinting the
original. Two problems here, one solved the other not solved. The solved
problem is registering the mask to the original. Solution: time and
patience. The unsolved one: I do not have a densitometer. Any tips here on
the density of the mask? The solution I have found is to make one and try
printing with it. If I need more/less density in the mask I make another
one. Suggestions???

Now to the next problem. Every author I have read suggests using an
"unsharp mask" so you get easier register and it sharpens the image. To that
end you have to place some kind of diffusing material between the original
and the masking film when you contactprint the mask. OK fairly easy, or not?
First I tried frosted glass 2 mm. thick (there is no way I can get anything
less than 2 mm) of the kind used in frames. No use, you get the largest
grain I have ever seen in any film (interesting for other creative
purposes). Next, normal glass 2 mm thick, but I fist spray both sides of the
glass with Tetenal anti-Newton spray. You get acceptable grain, but then it
is impossible to get positive register between the original and the mask. I
can get it registered in the center, but the four corners are out of
register. This gets you another interesting result: bas-relief. Is this what
they mean by the term "sharper image"? I know this effect is produced by the
thickness of the glass differentially enlarging the image before it gets to
the mask(refraction being the culprit here, I think). As I can not get
"Antinewton glass" in Mexico, what would you recommend? An acetate sheet
sprayed would suffice? Any "unsharpness" here would be negligible, or not?

Heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelp!!!!!!!!!

Francisco G. Maceda
carrillo@mailer.main.conacyt.mx (Eustoquia Carrillo)
Eustoquia Carrillo is my alias