Here's a selenium bleach and redevelop from the last edition:
BLEACH ITB-1 (Note that different bleaches, varying usually by the salt --
potassium bromide or sodium chloride mostly -- give different tones,
though which tone on which paper is not totally predictable. Other
factors, such as time & original developer, water supply and your personal
karma affect final tone as well.)
10 grams potassium ferricyanide
10 grams potassium bromide
cold water to make 100 cc
Dilute with water one to nine for use. You can also add a drop of strong
ammonia to the working solution.(That might be about 5 drops household,
non-sudsy, non-perfume ammonia.) Bleach can be reused indefinitely.
TONER IT3
10 grams sodium sulfide (yes the stinky sulfiDe)
7 grams selenium powder (that's 7/10ths of a gram)
cold water to make 100 cc
Dissolve the sulfide and warm the solution before adding the selenium.
Continue heating until the selenium is completely dissolved.
Dilute 1 to 10 with water for use. I'd use small amounts on a one or
two-shot basis.
Bleach the print in ITB-1. Rinse. Redevelop in IT3. Wash 10 minutes or
so. (Another source says you can add 5 drops of ammonia to the working
solution of toner, which I never did, but I imagine it would alter the
tone. "Adding ammonia reduces staining of whites, which may in any event
be removed in 10% potassium metabisulphite.")
Another lovely treatise on toning is Arthur Hammond's little book of the
'30s, "Toning Photographs" or something like that. There's also a
Malinckrodt (spelling?) spiral-bound book full of formulas
for intensification and reduction (which are also toners) that I see
fairly often at A Photographer's Place for about $15. Glafkides and
Clerc are good sources too. I'm not going to repeat all the awful
warnings. If you don't get the part about powers of chemicals by now,
you're already brain-damaged & it doesn't matter. But I will add that
sodium sulfide is powerful stinky. When you pour it out, don't let it
creep into edges of sink -- weaker is actually for some reason smellier.
HOWEVER, sodium sulfide by itself is a fine toner.Same as various Kodak
Brown Toners, no stinkier & helluva lot cheaper.
Barium sulfide is supposedly less odiferous. I've got some but somehow
never got around to using it. Thiocarbamide is another brown toner that
has much less (if any) odor, though in my experience the colors weren't as
fine.
I'm asked about the "albumen purple" toner -- the actual color is a factor
of the paper-toner combination. Needs trial and error and VERY careful
note-keeping to control. I'll add that I began toning because I was
working with Brovira #6 that I got a carload of cheap for Sabattier
Effect; it didn't respond to Kodak Rapid Selenium , at least color-wise,
and I had these books......
The old books also have developer formulas that will change
regular factory paper black to various shades of brown, a purpler black,
etc. But the variables of paper, time, dilution, etc. are so great you
have to try them to see what kind of tone they give.
Bleach the print in one of the ferricyanide bleaches and redevelop in one
of the developers. No stink, no bad chemicals, and often some very nice
colors. A further change plus archivality can be rung by then Kodak Rapid
Selenium toning the re-developed print.
Judy