Re : Some toning for cyanotype

Jack Fulton (jfulton@itsa.ucsf.EDU)
Wed, 1 Nov 1995 11:48:07 -0800 (PST)

Judy noted that I wished folks to post some toning formulae. Though I am
not a "true alternative process person", I have 'fiddled' quite a bit
w/it. I more manipulate color and B/W images w/pencils, text etc.
Because of that I want to point out that I did research in our library @
the San Francisco Art Institute, found some things in the Arno reprints,
Eder's histroy et al and wish to acknowledge Randy Bradley who teaches @
Emily Carr in Vancouver, Canada as being the first "expert" I ran into.
I appreciate a lot the sensible dialogue (colloquy) that goes on in this
list.

I would like to know if any of you folks have tried the "Pellet Process",
or, a postive blueprint where you get blue rather than white lines? I
have the formula here

PELLET PROCESS

SOL A Gum ArabicC 10ml
Distilled water 50mls
SOL B Ferric Ammonium Citrate 30 grms
Distilled water 50mls
SOL C Ferric chloride 10grms
Distilled water 50mls

Mix 10 parts Sol A, 4 parts Sol B and 3 parts Sol C

This mixture wil be thin, thicken up and finally clear. Then
apply (you can coat to a sized surface if you wish ... I assume
due to the gum) and dry.

Treat as a standar cyanotype etc. but develop in :
Potassium Ferricyandie 10grms
Distilled water 50mls

Rinse and follow w/a solution where you put about 1/2 a
teaspoon of Muriatic acid in a coupel of liters of water. Dry

BLACK TONES

Add three drops of Nitric acid (concentrated)* to one liter of water. Allow
the print to remain there for two or three minutes and then
transfer to a solution of :
Sodium Carbonate 14grms
water 160mls

While in this solution, the image will go away and reappear
in an orange tone.
The final bath is made of : Gallic Acid 14grms
Water 2 gallons
The bloack will appear. Wash at least 30 minutes.

* Nitric acid is highly caustic ... wear glasses and plastic
apron. NEVER add mater to acid.

BROWN

Immerse dried or processed and washed cyanotype inf :
Strong Ammonia 29 mls
Water 240 mls

NOTE : It is VERY wise to purchase a filtered ammonia mask
from a supply house such as Grainger, or a very good hardware
store. In fasct, I'd advise any person working with these
alternative chemicals (really, never work w/dry selenium
powder) to wear such a professional mask .. it only costs
about $25 ... eye gear and plastic aprons. As an aside, on
aprons, go to your favorite fabric store and buy some oil
cloth used for kitchen table covers in the late 1940 ... you
know, groups of cherrys and bananas .. and make your own
apron. Cheaper that way ... and, you have sort of a little
pepper upper of happiness there)

while in the above solution, the color will fade ... could
five minutes or longer.

Rinse for a minute or more

Place in a solution of : Tannic acid 14 grms
Distilled water 1 liter

Agitate for at least ten minutes or until your desired tone is
reached. If, after 15 minutes, it still aint where ya think it
ought be, add a couple drops of ammonia for intensification.

Wash & dry.

NOTE ;;;; it is noted that many people feel that colors given
to the cyanotype when ammonia is used, tend to be fugitive. I
feel if you wash thoroughly afterward you'll be as okay as you
can be.

DEEP BLUE

Tone in a 5% solution of Lead Acetate (dangerous) @ 85 degrees
F or higher .... wash thoroughly

GREEN

1% solution of Sulphuric acid ... wash thoroughly

VIOLET

1 tablespoon of Boras to a liter

that's my list.
Best
Jack Fulton


***The eye is the Pencil of Nurture***