Yes. I process my Pt/Pd prints in a Jobo. I run it at about 25rpm and it
works wonderfully. In an area of about 4 square feet I can make prints up to
20x24 inches. The development is tremendously even, arguably more so than
with trays (which I used for 10 years) since you drastically recue the
possibility of developer surge lines (as when the print doesn't immediately
and evenly go under the developing solution). I use 9 oz. (the size of the
small graudtaes with the Jobo) for everything up to 11x14 and 32 oz for my
16x20's and 20x24's. My Jobo has printed B&W prints, Type C's, Cibachromes
and film and the drums have no residue. I rinse them thoroughly after every
process and once in awhile (every few months or so) I send the drums, lids,
reels, etc through the dishwasher.
) Should the clearing baths be the same temp as the developer? It would be
>much easier to not keep them the same (since I am using the sodium
>dichromate contrast method - I can't keep them in the Jobo).
I have a Jobo tempering bath which keeps all my developers (I also use the
sodium dichromate method) and clearing baths at 75 degrees. Now, the Jobo is
an expensive way to do it. Much easier and cheaper is simply to get a
Rubbermaid tray about as deep as your storage bottles are high and get a good
aquarium heater and, voila, a tremendosuly accurate tempering bath for about
25 dollars. The cheapo method relies on convection to keep the bath
consistently warm throughout just as the Jobo does. I also have several 5
gallon spigot drums with water for rinses with aquarium heaters in them so my
rinse water is warm, too. A warmer clearing agent works a little better
because the fibers of the paper swell slightly and allow more residual iron
to leech out in the clearing stages.
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