RE: plexglass face mounting
Camden, Hydrocote Polysheild Clear Superpoly won't yellow. http://hydrocote.com/our_products.htm This is the product Loris uses and I've also used it. I've never had prints yellow though I don't use it for other aesthetic reasons. However eventually I may try spraying the matt finish. The product is expensive but doesn't yellow. Don Bryant -----Original Message----- From: Camden Hardy [mailto:camden@hardyphotography.net] Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 3:37 PM To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca Subject: RE: plexglass face mounting I'd be suspicious of polyurethane in general. I just finished a series of 24"x32" pt/pd prints (8"x8" squares collaged together), which were coated with "non-yellowing" polyurethane. Guess what...they turned yellow. It worked out really well in the context of my project (I was secretly hoping they would turn yellow), but it's hardly non-yellowing. On the other hand, it may have a different effect on aluminum... Camden Hardy camden[at]hardyphotography[dot]net http://www.hardyphotography.net On Mon, December 11, 2006 11:42 pm, Loris Medici wrote: > > Hi Katharine, > > Polyurethane based glossy (or semi-glossy) wood finish can be used to > seal the print surface also. Products designed for outdoor furniture > are non-yellowing and UV protective. Still there's a problem with the > "rough terrain" of multilayer gum prints - if not enough viscous, the > finish would migrate to lower parts of the image... > > I like the glass / double glass idea (maybe plexi would be better - > because glass is quite heavy compared to plexi). Noted for future > works, thanks. > > Regards, > Loris. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Katharine Thayer [mailto:kthayer@pacifier.com] > Sent: 11 Aralęk 2006 Pazartesi 21:52 > To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca > Subject: Re: plexglass face mounting > > Hey guys, > Embedding the whole surface in casting resin, as you say, would do the > trick but would somewhat change the nature of the work. You might do > the same thing with acrylic medium or gel, but may have to apply it in > layers to get the thickness. Or something I did for a show where I > mounted prints on hardboard panels and presented them unglazed and > unframed: to protect the prints and also to give it a nice sheen, I > poured clear beeswax over the prints and buffed the heck out of it > with a soft cloth to give it a little luster. When I was done buffing > 20 fairly large panels this way, I had really sore arm muscles. The > beeswax is softer than the resin idea, but also has a more organic > look to it, which appealed to me. > > It's easy with glass, because you can print on the back of the glass > so that the image is viewed through the glass, then the print is > protected by the glass, without anything needed on the front of the > print (although I've thought of putting another piece of glass, > separated by some space, behind (both pieces of glass held by wood > strips at the > edges) so the piece could be hung away from the wall, as a divider or > something like that, and viewed from both sides. Of course not all > images would work well that way. This idea wouldn't work for aluminum > of course, but I'm just putting this in a general category of ideas > about how to present work that you don't want to, or doesn't lend > itself well to, the usual matting and glazing and framing routine. > Katharine > >
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