U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | RE: plexglass face mounting

RE: plexglass face mounting



I'd be suspicious of polyurethane in general.

I just finished a series of 24"x32" pt/pd prints (8"x8" squares collaged
together), which were coated with "non-yellowing" polyurethane.  Guess
what...they turned yellow.  It worked out really well in the context of my
project (I was secretly hoping they would turn yellow), but it's hardly
non-yellowing.

On the other hand, it may have a different effect on aluminum...


Camden Hardy

camden[at]hardyphotography[dot]net
http://www.hardyphotography.net



On Mon, December 11, 2006 11:42 pm, Loris Medici wrote:
>
> Hi Katharine,
>
> Polyurethane based glossy (or semi-glossy) wood finish can be used to
> seal the print surface also. Products designed for outdoor furniture are
> non-yellowing and UV protective. Still there's a problem with the "rough
> terrain" of multilayer gum prints - if not enough viscous, the finish
> would migrate to lower parts of the image...
>
> I like the glass / double glass idea (maybe plexi would be better -
> because glass is quite heavy compared to plexi). Noted for future works,
> thanks.
>
> Regards,
> Loris.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Katharine Thayer [mailto:kthayer@pacifier.com]
> Sent: 11 Aralęk 2006 Pazartesi 21:52
> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
> Subject: Re: plexglass face mounting
>
> Hey guys,
> Embedding the whole surface in casting resin, as you say, would do the
> trick but would somewhat change the nature of the work.  You might do
> the same thing with acrylic medium or gel, but may have to apply it in
> layers to get the thickness.  Or something  I did for a show where  I
> mounted prints on hardboard panels and presented them unglazed and
> unframed:  to protect the prints and also to give it a nice sheen, I
> poured clear beeswax over the prints and buffed the heck out of it with
> a soft cloth to give it a little luster.  When I was done buffing 20
> fairly large panels this way, I had really sore arm muscles. The beeswax
> is softer than the resin idea, but also has a more organic look to it,
> which appealed to me.
>
> It's easy with glass, because you can print on the back of the glass so
> that the image is viewed through the glass, then the print is protected
> by the glass, without anything needed on the front of the print
> (although I've thought of putting another piece of glass, separated by
> some space, behind (both pieces of glass held by wood strips at the
> edges) so the piece could be hung away from the wall, as a divider or
> something like that, and viewed from both sides.  Of course not all
> images would work well that way.  This idea wouldn't work for aluminum
> of course, but I'm just putting this in a general category of ideas
> about how to present work that you don't want to, or doesn't lend itself
> well to,  the usual matting and glazing and framing routine. Katharine
>
>