RE: plexglass face mounting
Good to know. Thanks Don. Camden Hardy camden[at]hardyphotography[dot]net http://www.hardyphotography.net On Tue, December 12, 2006 1:53 pm, Don Bryant wrote: > Camden, > > Hydrocote Polysheild Clear Superpoly won't yellow. > > http://hydrocote.com/our_products.htm > > This is the product Loris uses and I've also used it. I've never had > prints > yellow though I don't use it for other aesthetic reasons. However > eventually > I may try spraying the matt finish. The product is expensive but doesn't > yellow. > > Don Bryant > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Camden Hardy [mailto:camden@hardyphotography.net] > Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 3:37 PM > To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca > Subject: RE: plexglass face mounting > > I'd be suspicious of polyurethane in general. > > I just finished a series of 24"x32" pt/pd prints (8"x8" squares collaged > together), which were coated with "non-yellowing" polyurethane. Guess > what...they turned yellow. It worked out really well in the context of my > project (I was secretly hoping they would turn yellow), but it's hardly > non-yellowing. > > On the other hand, it may have a different effect on aluminum... > > > Camden Hardy > > camden[at]hardyphotography[dot]net > http://www.hardyphotography.net > > > > On Mon, December 11, 2006 11:42 pm, Loris Medici wrote: >> >> Hi Katharine, >> >> Polyurethane based glossy (or semi-glossy) wood finish can be used to >> seal the print surface also. Products designed for outdoor furniture >> are non-yellowing and UV protective. Still there's a problem with the >> "rough terrain" of multilayer gum prints - if not enough viscous, the >> finish would migrate to lower parts of the image... >> >> I like the glass / double glass idea (maybe plexi would be better - >> because glass is quite heavy compared to plexi). Noted for future >> works, thanks. >> >> Regards, >> Loris. >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Katharine Thayer [mailto:kthayer@pacifier.com] >> Sent: 11 Aralęk 2006 Pazartesi 21:52 >> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca >> Subject: Re: plexglass face mounting >> >> Hey guys, >> Embedding the whole surface in casting resin, as you say, would do the >> trick but would somewhat change the nature of the work. You might do >> the same thing with acrylic medium or gel, but may have to apply it in >> layers to get the thickness. Or something I did for a show where I >> mounted prints on hardboard panels and presented them unglazed and >> unframed: to protect the prints and also to give it a nice sheen, I >> poured clear beeswax over the prints and buffed the heck out of it >> with a soft cloth to give it a little luster. When I was done buffing >> 20 fairly large panels this way, I had really sore arm muscles. The >> beeswax is softer than the resin idea, but also has a more organic >> look to it, which appealed to me. >> >> It's easy with glass, because you can print on the back of the glass >> so that the image is viewed through the glass, then the print is >> protected by the glass, without anything needed on the front of the >> print (although I've thought of putting another piece of glass, >> separated by some space, behind (both pieces of glass held by wood >> strips at the >> edges) so the piece could be hung away from the wall, as a divider or >> something like that, and viewed from both sides. Of course not all >> images would work well that way. This idea wouldn't work for aluminum >> of course, but I'm just putting this in a general category of ideas >> about how to present work that you don't want to, or doesn't lend >> itself well to, the usual matting and glazing and framing routine. >> Katharine >> >> > > > >
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