Re: plexglass face mounting
I've not dipped into this conversation but some of the poly clear
paints say they
will not yellow but if they are solvent based they will. It is the
acrylic version of'
these paints, which will not yellow. Is that was you used?
Jack F
On December2006, at 12:36 PM, Camden Hardy wrote:
I'd be suspicious of polyurethane in general.
I just finished a series of 24"x32" pt/pd prints (8"x8" squares
collaged
together), which were coated with "non-yellowing" polyurethane. Guess
what...they turned yellow. It worked out really well in the
context of my
project (I was secretly hoping they would turn yellow), but it's
hardly
non-yellowing.
On the other hand, it may have a different effect on aluminum...
Camden Hardy
camden[at]hardyphotography[dot]net
http://www.hardyphotography.net
On Mon, December 11, 2006 11:42 pm, Loris Medici wrote:
Hi Katharine,
Polyurethane based glossy (or semi-glossy) wood finish can be used to
seal the print surface also. Products designed for outdoor
furniture are
non-yellowing and UV protective. Still there's a problem with the
"rough
terrain" of multilayer gum prints - if not enough viscous, the finish
would migrate to lower parts of the image...
I like the glass / double glass idea (maybe plexi would be better -
because glass is quite heavy compared to plexi). Noted for future
works,
thanks.
Regards,
Loris.
-----Original Message-----
From: Katharine Thayer [mailto:kthayer@pacifier.com]
Sent: 11 Aralęk 2006 Pazartesi 21:52
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Subject: Re: plexglass face mounting
Hey guys,
Embedding the whole surface in casting resin, as you say, would do
the
trick but would somewhat change the nature of the work. You might do
the same thing with acrylic medium or gel, but may have to apply
it in
layers to get the thickness. Or something I did for a show where I
mounted prints on hardboard panels and presented them unglazed and
unframed: to protect the prints and also to give it a nice sheen, I
poured clear beeswax over the prints and buffed the heck out of it
with
a soft cloth to give it a little luster. When I was done buffing 20
fairly large panels this way, I had really sore arm muscles. The
beeswax
is softer than the resin idea, but also has a more organic look to
it,
which appealed to me.
It's easy with glass, because you can print on the back of the
glass so
that the image is viewed through the glass, then the print is
protected
by the glass, without anything needed on the front of the print
(although I've thought of putting another piece of glass,
separated by
some space, behind (both pieces of glass held by wood strips at the
edges) so the piece could be hung away from the wall, as a divider or
something like that, and viewed from both sides. Of course not all
images would work well that way. This idea wouldn't work for
aluminum
of course, but I'm just putting this in a general category of ideas
about how to present work that you don't want to, or doesn't lend
itself
well to, the usual matting and glazing and framing routine.
Katharine
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