Hi Hellena,
I'm not a chemist, but different manufacturers make plates out of
different types of plastics (my understanding is the Toyobo KM73 is
made of nylon). Not all brands are created equal. The differences
among the different plates to me come down to how well their structure
can hold a tiny pool of ink which forms the dot on the final print.
Some plates are more prone to manufacturer defects, such as pits on the
surface of the plate. Personally I like the Toyobo KM73.
Sorry I can't help you with European suppliers, but maybe someone else
on the list can.
Best wishes,
Jon
Hellena Cleary wrote:
I have been following this thread with interest because I have just started
working with this material. The plate I am getting from Intaglio Printmaking
Supplies in London is called Toyobo Solar Plate. ( That is written on the
packaging.)I was unaware of all the different types of plate and am still
not sure what is the difference between them. Can anybody help? Also the
plate is very expensive over here. Does anyone know any other European
suppliers? All information gratefully received. ( I am using the Dan Wheldon
book as a primer.) Hellena
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Lybrook" <jon@terabear.com>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 1:34 AM
Subject: Re: Newbie introduction
Susan Voss wrote:
Hi Jon, thanks for the response. Ever since I've decided to try this
process, I've thought about which type light source would be best.
Seems to me that a point light source would give sharper definition to
each edge of those little "aquatint" dots. I'd bet though, that a
"hotter", meaning quicker exposure would give the cleanest edge....
whichever type of light source used. I can't back that up with facts,
but I'll not let get in the way of my intuition :o)
Hi Susan,
I think your intuition will prove correct in practice. Size of the dots
will be minimal with proper exposure times for both the "aquatint"
screen and the image. The two different exposures seem to affect and
impact one another.
I'd suggest starting small and go larger as you get your exposure times
figured out. Even contact becomes a bigger problem as you go larger.
I look forward to seeing your results!
Best wishes,
Jon
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