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Halleluia! I am beginning to see the (UV) light.
Many thanks for putting up the link to Toyobo. It does work quite differently
from Solarplate. Hellena
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 12:51
AM
Subject: Re: Photopolymer Plate
Options
Hi Nancy,
For whatever it's worth, both KM73 and
KM43 are mentioned on the Toyobo site here:
http://www.toyobo.co.jp/e/seihin/xk/pad/index.htm
I'm
interested in how one can purchase directly from Toyobo. Can you please
post contact info for your source?
Thanks!
Jon
Nancy
Diessner wrote:
Mark,
Thanks for asking the question. I've been puzzled by what BoxCar sells (KM73) since I haven't seen a Printight KM73 on Toyobo's Website.
I get my Printight KM43 plates directly from Toyobo. I'm assuming the only difference is that the KM73 is thicker than the KM43, and for me the plates from Toyobo are cheaper. I've found the thickness of the plates I use just fine, and the blacks deep and rich, but I think I'll still give the KM73 plates a try and see what the slightly thicker plate is like.
Here's the comparison:
>From Box Car:
Printight KM73
face relief: .019"
thickness: .029
surface: smooth
hardness 65
A2: $35
>From Toyobo:
Printight KM43
Total Thickness: 0.43mm/0.017"
Relief thickness: 0.20mm/.008
Support base: Steel Plate
Standard Size A2/S-13
I get an educational discount on these plates, which makes them cheaper than those from Box Car.
Nancy
Jon Lybrook wrote:
Hi Mark,
The "EcoEtch" plate from Box Car Press I mentioned is the Toyobo
(model KM73) plate. "EcoEtch for Photogravure" is their
internal name for it at Box Car Press. I believe it is the
same plate Keith was talking about too. We discussed different
sources for the plate, Box Car Press being the most affordable I've found.
I've read references to other Toyobo plates here too, but I'm not
sure what they are about or how they differ from the KM73. That
plate has come recommended by several people on this list besides me, and
in at least one book I've read.
Thickness of the plate impacts the
depth of the dot/holes one can create in the plate. Presumably the
deeper the dot, the more ink one can wipe in to the plate, and the more
ink that gets in the more comes out, on to your print.
If you're into
relief printing, or the effect of open bite, the thicker the polymer, the
deeper the relief lines can be as well. I probably wouldn't use the
KM73 for that kind of work, since the polymer is relatively thin.
I've not had problems getting deep, rich blacks once the exposure time has
been established (and using Charbonnel Carbon Black ink), however.
Hope that helps clarify some of the confusion.
Cheers,
Jon
D. Mark Andrews wrote:
Was just reading through my stockpile of list
emails on this topic and found
myself a bit confused. It I'm
following correctly, I have these options for
making photopolymer
plates that are "developed" using water:
Solarplate (This is the
plate I've been toying with)
Dan Welden
Printight (Keith
Taylor's recommendation)
Toyobo
Printight DF
Toyobo
EcoEtch KM73 (Jon Lybrook's recommendation)
Boxcar Press
Also, I get that the plate base thickness factors into the depth
of etching,
but not sure how. Can anyone enlighten me?
Mark
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