Re: Cutting polymer plates
Great idea. I need to do that. Of course I'm certain I threw out my old safelights just last summer. :-PSo... I handle them only under yellow light before exposure.
Maybe I can just paint a 40 watt bulb yellow with enamel paint? Anyone do that for poor-person's safelights? Again, the sensitivity low on these plates compared to other processes...maybe on par with Pt/Pd in terms of ISO/ASA. Not sure exactly...
Printing a test of a real image using spray coating and no baby powder today. No patches are visible. We'll see what else happens...and will report back.
As far as plate tone... I don't want much if any plate tone unless I choose to achieve it during wiping, so a certain amount of flashing isn't a bad thing for me, and I may eventually choose to do a pre-exposure flash, once I get my workflow all figured out. In other words, I don't want any tone "built in" to my plate... I want the top surfaces to be glassy-hard and smooth.
Dan Welden's book has many suggestions on how to mitigate plate tone.
Yup. They're definitely more susceptible to scratches than Solarplates. I only wipe the plates with clean phone book pages, newsprint, and tissue for that reason.Speaking of that... sometimes I think the surface feels "soft" after development and hardening. easily scratched... my fingernail can feel a give in the material. is that the nature of a correctly hardened poly plate?
On the subject of durability, I spoke with a picky client recently who does lots of editioning and he says they typically don't get more than 30 prints out of a solarplate before the tone and sharpness diminish. I assume the same or less is true for the KM73s. Most I've done is editions of 20 with some changes, but not an unacceptable loss of quality after 20.
susan On 3/13/07, Camden Hardy <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:> Question: How particular are people about keeping their plates in the