Re: orotone
The idea, Robert, is to put a reflective backing on a glass plate, positive
image. Shellac can be bought in any paint store.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert" <rc3@flash.net>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 1:07 PM
Subject: RE: orotone
Steve,
Thank you for the information and putting me on the right track.
What I am doing is working but I am going to start making the shellac and
trying it directly on the positive image plate. That would go with what
France Osterman suggests that the positive image emulsion side be place
against the gold leaf plate.
Best Regards,
Robert
-----Original Message-----
From: SteveS [mailto:sgshiya@redshift.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 12:30 PM
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Subject: Re: orotone
As you may recall, I posed this information once before. Immogene
Cunningham was Sheriff Curtis' assistant, running or working in his lab in
Long Beach. She described the process as you had, but the final step to
put
the gold tone on the back was to go directly to 'shellac' and sprinkling a
generous abount of brass, instead of gold, dust on the plate.
Beautiful result on orotones, or Curtistones. Cunningham, a brilliant
phtographer, was a chemist by the way. In Paris she studied botany, not
photography.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert" <rc3@flash.net>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 7:44 PM
Subject: RE: orotone
I will try to explain how they are made. Bear in mind I am still refining
the process. I have not found a lot of information through my search.
There
is some in the wet plate forum. The orotone is a projected image onto a
glass plate using the standard collodion for a positive image. I use a
zone
6 cold light and expose for 30 sec to a minute with my lens open to f5.6.
I
dilute my developer (positive developer with sugar) 2to1 and develop for
60
seconds'
Fix the plate wash it. Next bleach it then tone or intensifying with
sodium
sulfate this gives the shadows rather than the highlights brown scale or
tint, the toning is giving me the most problems and I am slowly getting
the
right dilution.
Dry plate and vanish it. Take second glass plate and brush on gold leaf
paint. (I pour the paint) The paint that works for me is the one that has
a
black tinted binder for the metal in the gold leaf, Metal is probably
brass
and copper. This seems to be key to what Curtis did. Black matrix and
metal
gives the effect of grain
Place the positive image plate against the gold leaf plate. I hot glue
the
edges to bond it.
Best regards,
Robert Cockrell
-----Original Message-----
From: kerik@kerik.com [mailto:kerik@kerik.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 2:58 PM
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Subject: RE: orotone
Robert,
These are interesting. Do you want to share some of the details of how
you
make these?
Kerik
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Robert rc3@flash.net
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2007 14:39:34 -0700
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Subject: RE: orotone
Have just put some orotone images on the web. The address is:
http://www.c4fap.org/c4e/c4mbrGallery.asp?profid=5708&page=1
For some reason I am unable to get a good scan of these. Maybe because of
the gold leaf. They are much better than my scans show. Mark here are
some
real orotone. If any one would like try and get a better scan for me.
Contact me off list and I will send one to you.
Best regards,
Robert Cockrell
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