RE: orotone
Steve, Thank you for the information and putting me on the right track. What I am doing is working but I am going to start making the shellac and trying it directly on the positive image plate. That would go with what France Osterman suggests that the positive image emulsion side be place against the gold leaf plate. Best Regards, Robert -----Original Message----- From: SteveS [mailto:sgshiya@redshift.com] Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 12:30 PM To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca Subject: Re: orotone As you may recall, I posed this information once before. Immogene Cunningham was Sheriff Curtis' assistant, running or working in his lab in Long Beach. She described the process as you had, but the final step to put the gold tone on the back was to go directly to 'shellac' and sprinkling a generous abount of brass, instead of gold, dust on the plate. Beautiful result on orotones, or Curtistones. Cunningham, a brilliant phtographer, was a chemist by the way. In Paris she studied botany, not photography. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert" <rc3@flash.net> To: <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 7:44 PM Subject: RE: orotone >I will try to explain how they are made. Bear in mind I am still refining > the process. I have not found a lot of information through my search. > There > is some in the wet plate forum. The orotone is a projected image onto a > glass plate using the standard collodion for a positive image. I use a > zone > 6 cold light and expose for 30 sec to a minute with my lens open to f5.6. > I > dilute my developer (positive developer with sugar) 2to1 and develop for > 60 > seconds' > > Fix the plate wash it. Next bleach it then tone or intensifying with > sodium > sulfate this gives the shadows rather than the highlights brown scale or > tint, the toning is giving me the most problems and I am slowly getting > the > right dilution. > > Dry plate and vanish it. Take second glass plate and brush on gold leaf > paint. (I pour the paint) The paint that works for me is the one that has > a > black tinted binder for the metal in the gold leaf, Metal is probably > brass > and copper. This seems to be key to what Curtis did. Black matrix and > metal > gives the effect of grain > > Place the positive image plate against the gold leaf plate. I hot glue the > edges to bond it. > > Best regards, > Robert Cockrell > > -----Original Message----- > From: kerik@kerik.com [mailto:kerik@kerik.com] > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 2:58 PM > To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca > Subject: RE: orotone > > Robert, > > These are interesting. Do you want to share some of the details of how you > make these? > > Kerik > > > Original Message: > ----------------- > From: Robert rc3@flash.net > Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2007 14:39:34 -0700 > To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca > Subject: RE: orotone > > > > Have just put some orotone images on the web. The address is: > > http://www.c4fap.org/c4e/c4mbrGallery.asp?profid=5708&page=1 > > > For some reason I am unable to get a good scan of these. Maybe because of > the gold leaf. They are much better than my scans show. Mark here are some > real orotone. If any one would like try and get a better scan for me. > Contact me off list and I will send one to you. > > Best regards, > Robert Cockrell > > > > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > myhosting.com - Premium MicrosoftR WindowsR and Linux web and application > hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting > > > >
|