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Re: A few gum things
 
 
Thanks, Keith.  I have no idea what I did wrong-- followed the steps  
to the letter with the gum/dichromate sizing, but you are correct--  
reducing the use of dichromate is certainly preferable.  I was  
actually trying to get away from gelatin as I just don't like what it  
does to the surface of the paper.  Since then, I tried less gelatin  
and it looks better and still seems to work fine.
 
Thanks about the gesso information, too.
 
Diana
 
On Apr 7, 2008, at 10:11 AM, Keith Gerling wrote:
 I've tried it and it works fine, but in my case I am trying to reduce
dichromates, so I choose glut as my primary pollutant in place of
another dichromate step.
Until my recent discovery of Masa, I had use gesso for over eight
years.  Gesso on paper (old prints_. gesso on wood, on tap paper, and
primarily on aluminum.  I find that bottled artist's gesso using
acrylic did not have enough tooth and gum.  Some stuff that came from
Canada (forgot the name - white containers with red lettering) worked
OK, but that the best results were to be had with using the "old
formula" gesso: home made with rabbit skin glue.
On Sun, Apr 6, 2008 at 11:27 PM, Diana Bloomfield
<dhbloomfield@bellsouth.net> wrote:
 Oh, I would like to also add that I tried that sizing suggestion in  
James'book (and I saw it mentioned somewhere else, too) where you size  
with gum
 and dichromate-- I tried that twice and couldn't get it to work.  Has
 anybody ever actually tried that, and does it work?
 
 
 
 
 On Apr 6, 2008, at 11:16 PM, Christina Z. Anderson wrote:
 
 
 
 Don,lot of info in the past on glut, and he was the one who intitially  
led me toMaybe this might help, a quote from Mike Ware.  Also, Ryuji has  
posted a
 
 use it. BTW I had not told Mike what strength I was using, and I  
normally
 use a 2.5% solution but with the 25% that the Formulary sells, I  
take a ml
 out of the bottle, immediately put it in a thermos of 1 liter of  
gelatin,
 and keep that capped at all times, pouring out 1/2 c. at a time. He  
was
 talking about 40% to 40% (or 37% as formalin is) and the most  
important
 thing here is that formalin is a gas at room temp.  I can also  
locate my
 notes from Ryuji but he may chime in without my having to do that.
 
 Chris
 "Whence, it seems from the LD50 (lethal dose, 50% rat population)  
values,
 that glutaraldehyde is about six times more toxic than  
formaldehyde *on a
 weight basis*. This is generally born out by the recommended  
Occupational
 Exposure Limits, which is about four times lower for  
glutaraldehyde -
 
 again,
 on a weight basis.
 Set against this is the fact that formaldehyde is a known  
carcinogen in
 
 lab
 animals but glutaraldehyde is not known to be.
 Both substances are said to have "reproductive effects" i.e. may be
 teratogenic or mutagenic.  (Pregnant students keep away!)
 
 But the toxicity measurement per unit weight gives you no idea of  
the
 relative risk in practice, which also depends on the amount of  
substance
 that might be ingested/absorbed/inhaled:-
 
 Let's suppose no-one is going to drink the hardener baths - that's  
a short
 road to a painful death.
 Let's further suppose that gloves and labcoat will always be worn  
and a
 face-mask if needbe with the concentrated solutions, so there is no
 possibility of skin contact with the solutions.
 
 Then the only risk comes from *inhalation of the vapours*.
 The relative risks here could be very different - and much less for
 glutaraldehyde - because of their differing physical properties.
 
 Both substances are usually supplied as 40% solutions in water  
(tho' you
 
 may
 well dilute them 10x ? for use as hardeners). But this is where I  
run out
 of
 data - I don't know the vapour pressures of these substances over  
theiraqueous solutions, but they must be very different:
 
 formaldehyde (pure) is a *gas* at room temperature, Boiling Point  
-21 C
 
 glutaraldehyde (pure) is a rather involatile liquid, Boiling point  
+187 C
 
 so glutaraldehyde is far less volatile, and its solution will have  
a much
 lower vapour pressure over it than formaldehyde - so far less is  
likely to
 be inhaled. Just the 'smells' are an indicator. Sorry I can't  
quantify it.
 
 What I'm saying is:
 
 1) The higher intrinsic toxicity of glutaraldehyde should not be an
 
 argument
 for preferring formaldehyde, because you are likely to inhale much  
moreformaldehyde than glutaraldehyde - so the toxic effect is  
comparable or
 worse.
 
 2) Both substances are toxic enough, in concentrated solution, to  
require
 handling in a fume hood with an adequate air extract system."
 
 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Sweet"  
<don@sweetlegal.co.nz>
 To: <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca>
 Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 7:36 PM
 Subject: Re: A few gum things
 
 
 Let me say first that I have zero technical knowledge or training  
on this
 topic, but I wonder whether there is any real basis for preferring
 glutaraldehyde over formaldehyde.
 
 Although g'de is marginally less likely to get up your nose than  
f'de at
 room temperature, it seems just as nasty in almost every other  
respect. At
 least the appalling smell of f'de prompts you to take immediate  
steps to
 protect yourself.
 
 One analysis I found on google suggests the apparent lack of  
carcinogenic
 response to g'de is due to its greater toxicity compared to f'de!
 
 Don Sweet
 
 
 
 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Christina Z. Anderson"
 
 <zphoto@montana.net>
 To: <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2008 8:14 AM
Subject: Re: A few gum things
 Wpw, Henry,
Thanks for this--I will try the extreme dilution thing asap!
I totally agree about the yellow.  I try to forbid myself from
 developing
 the yellow layer at night because invariably I wake up the next  
day and
 
 the
 resultant print turns out too yellow biased. If I err on any  
layer, it
 is
 development of the yellow.
 LOL I have to tell you a funny.  The first time I taught gum in  
my alt
 
 
 class
 a la PDN, the students felt pretty bogged down with curving gum AND
 learning
 it, and I only had 2 final projects in gum at the end of the  
class.  Thenext time I taught gum, I had one non-curved/low tech assignment  
in gum
 
 
 and
 then went into gum curves and I had students who really wanted to
 explore
 monochrome, duotone, tricolor, etc. etc.--in other words, more
 assignments.
 
SO, this year, I assigned these assignments:  one layer monochrome
 uncurved
 gum, duotone uncurved, tricolor uncurved, tricolor curved, and then
 tricolor
 curved over cyano.  The overwhelming opinion from the students  
was to
 
 start
 out with correct curves because when they finally got to the  
curved gumprints it was infinitely easier to get a good print!
 
 I always learn and morph with my students....next time I will do  
one
 
 
 carbon
 black uncurved monoprint and go right into curves.
 Now, some other gum things:
 
 Two, with offlist correspondence a gummist struggled with gum  
immensely,
 specifically the blue layer staining horribly and/or not  
releasing, and
 finally bit the bullet and sized with glutaraldehyde-hardened  
gelatin.
 Presto, perfect gum print first shot.  I have had this experience  
with a
 number of offlist gummists.  Photographer's Formulary now sells  
glut,
 
 but
 
 it
 is at a 25% (!) strength so must be cut down to 2.5%!  If used at  
25% itrequires less than a ml of that per liter!
 
 I decided this fall/winter to size a bunch of paper a la  
formaldehyde,
 because I really wanted to compare the two (glut and formalin)  
side by
 
 
 side.
 Hey, formaldehyde works great.  I sized my paper with gelatin  
inside,
 then
 went out into my garage and hardened in a bath of 100ml formalin  
to a
 
 gallon
 water.  Hung all my papers to dry out there.  When fairly dry, I  
brought
 
 all
 the sheets inside the house and hung them in the bathroom.  I was  
notprepared for what happened.
 
 My garage was about 40 or so degrees.  My bathroom was 70.  The  
formalin
 outgassed horribly, so bad that I had to slam shut the bathroom  
door and
 
 
 not
 enter because my eyes stung horribly.  Glut does NOT outgas at  
that lowtemp.  Another plus for glut!
 
 Well, it wasn't a question of not entering the bathroom again.  I
 
 slammed
 the door shut so hard the doorknob locked on me and I could not  
get the
 
 door
 open even with picks and screwdrivers and wrenches so my son in  
law had
 to
 come over and remove the door handle and replace it.  By that  
time all
 the
 outgassing was past.
Chris
----- Original Message ----- From: "Henry Rattle"
 <henry.rattle@ntlworld.com>
 To: <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca>Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 11:41 AM
 Subject: A few gum things
 
 
 Over the past month or two, Iıve been working through the PDN  
process
 
 for
 tricolour gum (for the second time, but this time doing it  
properly, andavoiding ³shortcuts² that turned into dead ends). I really  
enjoyed the
 
 
 logic
 of PDN and the way it makes you look at every step of your workingprocedures, and also the fact that it actually works!
 
 On the way I learned a few things which most of you probably  
know, but
 
 
 might
 be of some use to someone. Here they are:
 1. Thereıs a use for that long-neglected darkroom masking frame -  
itıs
 perfect for holding paper flat for brush coating.
 
 2. Donıt develop and clear gum, especially yellow, by the light  
of a
 low-energy compact fluorescent bulb! One evening I ³cleared² a  
yellow
 pigment layer in a room lit by an energy-saving bulb. Next  
morning, by
 daylight, the pigment layer was all still there! I looked up the
 
 emission
 spectrum of these bulbs. There are spikes and gaps in the spectrumeverywhere - (see for example
 http://beale.best.vwh.net/measure/cf-spectrum/index.html, or
 http://home.freeuk.com/m.gavin/grism2.htm). These lamps emit  
blue, green
 
 
 and
 red wavelengths, but in particular there is almost no yellow. I  
should
 
 have
 known this - I studied physics - but experience is a better  
teacher...
 3. The best way for me to clear a gum print in a reasonably  
repeatable
 
 and
 controllable way is to use a gardenerıs hand-held spray-mist  
(thank you,Christine!).
 
 4. For tricolour prints using gum over cyanotype, Iıve found that
 traditional cyanotype, used at full strength, is just too strong a
 
 colour
 
 to
 balance with watercolour pigments. However it works fine if you  
dilute
 it.
 Diluting 1 ml of (A+B) with between 5 and 7 ml of deionised water  
gives
 a
 good medium blue. Once diluted, it needs less exposure than
 full-strength
 (1+7 was 2 stops faster than full-strength A+B) and it also needs asignificantly different PDN curve. (Again, thanks Christine for  
offline
 discussion).
 
 With best wishes
 
 Henry
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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