U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | Re: question on sizing

Re: question on sizing

I've had no problem with fish-eyes since I started adding a drop or
two of Kremer Defoamer (kremer # 78600) to my gelatin.  Judy turned me
on to this magic elixir many years ago and it seems to make life


On Mon, Sep 8, 2008 at 11:19 AM, Christina Z. Anderson
<zphoto@montana.net> wrote:
> DJ,
> Thank YOU for all the stuff on acids, as well as all you other people!  Now
> I have one more thing on my plate to try--drop by drop in my gum mix.  I
> will post when done but with hobbling around now I am not too fast at
> getting to things.  BOY does that frikkin' cramp my style.
> And DJ, never feel like a novice asking all kinds of questions.  This is
> what makes this list tick, and in a way we are all novices at alt.
> As far as the book, I am looking for a publisher.  Long explanation, but
> here it is: if I want to use the book for my tenure case in 3 yr, it cannot
> be self-published.  However, if no publisher wants it (a single process book
> makes NO money they say) then I will self-publish within the year and just
> count it under my Teaching section of the dossier, which is what I did with
> the Experimental Workbook and Alt Proc Condensed.
> Do you all have all these ridiculous hoops in Europe as well?  Well, I guess
> they really aren't ridiculous, they're kind of challenging and even sort of
> fun.  Well, sort of.
> Chris
> PS Judy I have a transfer student from Pratt this year!
> __________________
> Christina Z. Anderson
> http://christinaZanderson.com/
> __________________
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dirk-Jan Treffers
> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
> Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 10:12 AM
> Subject: Re: question on sizing
> thanx Chris!
> I'll try to experiment more with the sizing, since this is quite 'new' to
> me. (For cyanotype it isn't necessary)...
> and about your first comment: You're WAY more experienced them I am, so
> you'll probablybe able to help with lots more things... I just need to make
> sure I finally get the proces a bit more unde control, so I will be able to
> identify problems and ask for solutions on this list. For now, me problems
> mainly look like 'hmmm after three layers it looks far to reddish to me'.
> And that kind of problems of course, i figure out on my own by either making
> a fourth layer with extra blue, or using less pigment in my red layer, or
> using a different kind of red pigment... for that kind of solutions by the
> way, I find the website http://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/water.html  on water
> colours VERY helpful... But i guess that's a website you guys already know
> of course ;-) So in the future, be ware of more of my problems/questions ;-)
> For now, I'm just lurking and reading on other peoples questions and
> learning from that!
> but than again, thanx for your help!
> DJ
> (by the way... I already have your book 'Alternative processes Condensed',
> but I heard from Kees Brandenburg that you're working on a special book on
> gum only. Any idea when that will be published???)
> 2008/9/7 Christina Z. Anderson <zphoto@montana.net>
>> Hi DJ,
>> So now I can help YOU.  Those spots are called "fish-eyes".  There are a
>> number of causes and this, too, plagued people back in the 1800's.  They had
>> different explanations for it.  I find that some pigments are oilier than
>> others--yellow rarely fisheyes for me but magenta does often.  I thought
>> this was because I was usually using magenta as my last layer and thus there
>> was a slicker surface of exposed gum layers below to make it fish eye, but
>> when I use magenta as my first layer it does it.
>> You may be right in that your sizing is causing this, either by unevenness
>> or that the layer is a bit oily.  How to get rid of them is let the layer
>> set for a few seconds and then brush, brush, brush, say, with a dry hake
>> brush to even them out.  This sometimes works.
>> Otherwise, make sure your gum mix is not too liquidy, because when my
>> coating solution is less viscous this happens more often.  So you might try
>> adding a little gum powder to thicken the layer so it doesn't separate.
>> As a last resort, do your gum print and fill in the missing color with
>> Prismacolor color pencils when the gum print is finished.
>> One 19th century explanation talked about at length in the British Journal
>> of Photography was that when the dichromate was added to the gum/pigment,
>> little balls of insoluble gum (like fish eggs) would form and "part the
>> waters" so to speak.  One man professed to see it under the microscope,
>> these little globules.  Who knows if this is correct, but it seems a bit far
>> fetched.
>> I sympathize with you because fish eyes are a PAIN.
>> Chris
>> __________________
>> Christina Z. Anderson
>> http://christinaZanderson.com/
>> __________________
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Dirk-Jan Treffers
>> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
>> Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 4:59 AM
>> Subject: question on sizing
>> dear list members,
>> I'm a novice at all these processes, so maybe you've encountered this
>> problem a thousand times allready, but maybe you guys (and gals) can help me
>> out:
>> for tri-colour gum printing, I size my paper. Although I don't think my
>> paper (Arches Aquarelle, 300 g/m, i use both cold and hot pressed) doesn't
>> really need sizing, I last found this paper from bamboo that I like, that
>> actually does need it.
>> I size with a 3% gelatin solution, with glyoxal as my hardening agent.
>> After drying (single coat of gelatine-size), I notice that my
>> gym/pigment/dichromate solution doesn't really stick on some small parts of
>> the paper. When I use non-hardened paper, I need more of the gum-dichromate
>> solution to coat my paper (but I don't actually mind this.....). On the
>> hardened paper, I need less volume of gum-chrom. solution. But in general,
>> it works fine, but there are (often) small parts, where the paper looke tike
>> it 'rejects' the solution. Don't really know how explain this, but it looks
>> a bit like the paper on that particular spot, doesn;t absorb water-like
>> soltions).
>> Does any one have any ideas on this? How to size in a way that these spot
>> son't occur any more? Or is sizing on Arches Aquarelle perhaps not even
>> necessary (an idea that I would really like, since this sizing stuff is
>> really boring....)?
>> Would love to hear your ideas on this issue!
>> kind reagrd,
>> DJ