I go to a beauty supply house and buy the clear 20v stuff--you should have a Sally Beauty supply by you. I get it by the gallon for $6. Then I use that equal--a liter of mordancage plus a liter of hp.
However, you can use the drugstore stuff as well but use more of it. The chemists on the list can chime in and tell you how much volume of 3.5% HP which I think is the drugstore kind, is equivalent to a liter of 20v....it is not a direct conversion and there is a formula. It works just fine.
In the fall I do a gang mordancage lab outside at my house with my photo students. It is a BLAST. This year I had them come back and do negatives a week later with the old solution. Again, wow stuff--esp the guy who did it to 8x10 bw.
Ilford MGIV is the best paper to do this with--very easy.
Get your copper chloride by the pound from artcraftchemicals.com--cheapest.
glacial acetic acid--you can substitute any stop bath for this but if the indicator stop bath that exhausts to purple, it will dye your prints, so stay away from indicator stop baths. Yukky.
Any developer will do.
I have a tray of thiocarbamide toner and a tray of selenium side by side with the developer. Remember not to selenium tone until after you develop because the fixer in KRST will bleach out the print permanently.
Lots more to tell but this is enough.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 1:29 PM
I'm going to be trying Mordanšage within a week or two, as soon as I can gather the materials/chemicals. I have a few questions about the hydrogen peroxide: will store bought peroxide work? All the recipes I've seen on the net say 30 volume. Is that what comes from the store? or will I need to get some from a chemical supplier?