U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | Re: Mordançage

Re: Mordançage

I totally skipped mentioning anything about the Mordanšage Lumens (Lumenšage maybe?).
Is the reason that mordanšage does it's thing on blacks is because of the dense build up of silver? If so, then my reasoning that it may work (or may not work, for that matter) is that the silver still has a build up in the emulsion where the plants were not on the paper. But then again, the prints aren't being developed...but does that matter?
I realize there are infinite variables in the Lumen process, and by combining it with the Mordanšage process, I'm introducing even more variables and unpredictability. But that's what experimentation is all about, I guess.


On Sep 28, 2008, at 4:44 PM, Christina Z. Anderson wrote:

Let the list know if it works on your Lumenprints, but remember this:  mordancage does its thing on blacks, and unless there are large areas of blacks on the print you may not get what you think.  It rarely budges my highlights or midtones which is the neat thing because any thing taken on a black background will veil around the thing.
BTW, do you have any old color c-41 paper?  Try doing lumens with that--a student did it this week and it is beautiful. She lost the image during fix tho so don't fix it!
PS My first assignment is a menu with Lumenprints as one choice....
Christina Z. Anderson
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: Mordanšage

Thanks for the info Chris
I'm planning on trying this out on my Lumen prints I've been working on. I'm interested to see if there is any lift/disintegration of the emulsion.
Do you think I'd have to redevelop the image?

With some luck, I should be able to get copper chloride at my school (I'm a first year grad student at Utah State University)Śat least I'm assuming I might. If I am, I just may be playing around with Mordanšage tomorrow.

On Sep 28, 2008, at 4:18 PM, Christina Z. Anderson wrote:

Hi Andy,
I go to a beauty supply house and buy the clear 20v stuff--you should have a Sally Beauty supply by you.  I get it by the gallon for $6.  Then I use that equal--a liter of mordancage plus a liter of hp.
However, you can use the drugstore stuff as well but use more of it.  The chemists on the list can chime in and tell you how much volume of 3.5% HP which I think is the drugstore kind, is equivalent to a liter of 20v....it is not a direct conversion and there is a formula.  It works just fine.
In the fall I do a gang mordancage lab outside at my house with my photo students. It is a BLAST.  This year I had them come back and do negatives a week later with the old solution.  Again, wow stuff--esp the guy who did it to 8x10 bw.
Ilford MGIV is the best paper to do this with--very easy.
Get your copper chloride by the pound from artcraftchemicals.com--cheapest.
glacial acetic acid--you can substitute any stop bath for this but if the indicator stop bath that exhausts to purple, it will dye your prints, so stay away from indicator stop baths. Yukky.
Any developer will do.
I have a tray of thiocarbamide toner and a tray of selenium side by side with the developer.  Remember not to selenium tone until after you develop because the fixer in KRST will bleach out the print permanently.
Lots more to tell but this is enough.
Christina Z. Anderson
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 1:29 PM
Subject: Mordanšage

Hello all,
I'm going to be trying Mordanšage within a week or two, as soon as I can gather the materials/chemicals. I have a few questions about the hydrogen peroxide: will store bought peroxide work? All the recipes I've seen on the net say 30 volume. Is that what comes from the store? or will I need to get some from a chemical supplier?


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