Re: Sorry & oilprint help
I have used litho varnish and plain oil paint - litho varnish can be
added to oil paint to stiffen it. I had some success with it - but
shortly after this I had to dismantle my darkroom in order to repair my
Litho varnish comes in a variety of thickness stiffness - I used a
number 8 from Graphic Chemical and Ink
I use weber Turpenoid natural to clean. Its a synthetic turpentine that
is non-toxix. Without this I couldn't consider doing oil print
I'm now working on putting my darkroom back together. I may be printing
again in a couple weeks :)
> Hi Henk,
> Thanks for replying. I'm going to order some litho ink as you suggest.
> I'll try again when it arrives and I'll get back to you with the
> results if I may? Once again, thank you
> David H
> On Oct 10 2008, henk thijs wrote:
> .... since two days al my msg's to the list were bouncing; so i
> contact my server and hope it is ok now...
> Normal oil paint is really not the way to go; litho-etching ink is
> harder (and i have the impression less additives).
> Even the litho-ink is not stiff enough for me, i add pure pigments to
> stiffen; also magnesium-carbonate can be used.
> But, like gumprinting, parameters influencing the final result are
> Gelatine coating (it took me some time before deciding to stick to 3
> layers of 8 to 10 %.)
> The potassium carbonate 6 %, coating until the paper is not taken
> anymore and it takes a long time to dry.
> The exposure, compared to gum it takes about 2 times as much (in my
> case with an inkjet-plotter-foil neg.: for gum 600 to 700 seconds,
> for oilprint about 1400 seconds)
> The ink: if spread very thin on a tile or equivalent, go over it with
> a foam roller, try on a sheet of normal paper, result must be a very
> thin 'brayer-stroke'.
> Before inking i dry the paper both sides, and wait a bit before
> starting inking.
> If ink is applied, spray a bit of water over it, and use a clean foam
> roller to bring back the contrast.
> Hope this helps.
> If not, tell me what exactly goes wrong.