Re: intensity of bulbs
Jim Larimer said: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jim_larimer/3302316486/ I will keep playing around to find optimum printing times and pigment strengths, and to find out if I need to add more lights to my array. Jim Jim, Nice print! After this discussion about CMYK I thought I might give it a whirl in the near future. I, like you, have been using a final coat of blue to give punch to the image. I never tried CMYK because I never use black in an image. But I have been printing 4 layers anyway, so CMYK wouldn't be such a leap except for the price of one more negative--which isn't cheap! For instance, in this Family of Origin project I am completing at the moment, a body of about 40 works, that's two more packs of Pictorico at $50 ea. Doing a large gum project like this when I have essentially printed out 180 13x19 negatives ( a bunch of the first ones I did I will not be using) has really been costly on ink and substrate. What dilutions of pigment are you ending up with? I have been much more rigorous measuring my exact dilutions with this large body of work and find that the thalo last layer has to be REALLY diluted to not dominate. I assume your Windsor Blue is a thalo? I find this also true of indanthrone blue like Schmincke Delft Blue, and also with Schmincke PY 150. All of those colors are really strong, and surprisingly, magenta PV19 is not as diluted in my practice. One other note: if a print seems too magenta, the thalo blue is a great last layer because of its green bias, but if the print seems too yellow, the delft blue is a great last layer because the latter blue is more purple and less green in tone and is a good complement, therefore, to tone down a yellow. I now have PINTS mixed up of my standard mixes of these two blues, as well as one magenta PV19 and one the Schmincke yellow PY150, my favorite yellow of late. It makes great greens and when I finally put up all the Family of Origin images on my website you can see what I mean. Chris
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