Re: intensity of bulbs
Jim Larimer said:
(BI will keep playing around to find optimum printing times and pigment (Bstrengths, and to find out if I need to add more lights to my array.
(BNice print! After this discussion about CMYK I thought I might give it a (Bwhirl in the near future.
(BI, like you, have been using a final coat of blue to give punch to the (Bimage. I never tried CMYK because I never use black in an image. But I (Bhave been printing 4 layers anyway, so CMYK wouldn't be such a leap except (Bfor the price of one more negative--which isn't cheap! For instance, in (Bthis Family of Origin project I am completing at the moment, a body of about (B40 works, that's two more packs of Pictorico at $50 ea. Doing a large gum (Bproject like this when I have essentially printed out 180 13x19 negatives (B( a bunch of the first ones I did I will not be using) has really been (Bcostly on ink and substrate.
(BWhat dilutions of pigment are you ending up with? I have been much more (Brigorous measuring my exact dilutions with this large body of work and find (Bthat the thalo last layer has to be REALLY diluted to not dominate. I (Bassume your Windsor Blue is a thalo? I find this also true of indanthrone (Bblue like Schmincke Delft Blue, and also with Schmincke PY 150. All of (Bthose colors are really strong, and surprisingly, magenta PV19 is not as (Bdiluted in my practice.
(BOne other note: if a print seems too magenta, the thalo blue is a great last (Blayer because of its green bias, but if the print seems too yellow, the (Bdelft blue is a great last layer because the latter blue is more purple and (Bless green in tone and is a good complement, therefore, to tone down a (Byellow. I now have PINTS mixed up of my standard mixes of these two blues, (Bas well as one magenta PV19 and one the Schmincke yellow PY150, my favorite (Byellow of late. It makes great greens and when I finally put up all the (BFamily of Origin images on my website you can see what I mean.