U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | Re: pyro and cyano

Re: pyro and cyano

<<<<<<<<<<Everything else (well, most...) looks like piece of
cake after being able to achieve consistent success with cyanotype. I was
shocked to find out how pt/pd is so much easier compared to cyanotype, for
instance!>>>>>>>>>

I found the same when I started with argyrotype, which I consider the most ridiculously fickle process. I have few very good argys to show for months of exclusive dedication to it...but I will admit that I didn't buy $18/sheet paper to print on ;-)

Pt/pd has been a breeze comparatively...

Paul




----- Original Message ----- From: "Loris Medici" <mail@loris.medici.name>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca>
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 11:10 AM
Subject: Re: pyro and cyano


Hi Christina,

10 Nisan 2009, Cuma, 6:45 pm tarihinde, Christina Z. Anderson yazmış:

Bob,
I quit using the hydrogen peroxide because it was questioned to perhaps
compromise the archivalness of the paper and it was unnecessary because
the
print would eventually get to that dark blue anyway, PLUS it seemed to
bleach the print a bit, though this latter is only subjective to me and
another person or so.

I don't think it will hurt the archival qualities of the paper if you use
very little like a cap (5-10ml) into 1000-2000ml water, keep the bath sort
(30-60 seconds is more than enough) and rinse well afterwards. That's what
I do; I experience no bleaching at that concentration and timing...


BUT this is my question--does the hydrogen peroxided print actually get
darker blue than one that oxidizes over several days?  So if it gets
darker,
there would be a benefit to it.  I have not tested this.

No it doesn't get darker. You just get the final result (w/o waiting a
couple of days) as soon as the print is completely dry.
...
Let me tell you, people complain about gum being fickle, I find personally
in my practice cyanotype the most fickle process of all. I can only chalk
it up to the fact that humidity and coating plays a way greater part in
that
process than people imagine. I know Sam Wang tames it beautifully.
Just because of this, I think it's a wonderful process to enter the
alt-process world. Everything else (well, most...) looks like piece of
cake after being able to achieve consistent success with cyanotype. I was
shocked to find out how pt/pd is so much easier compared to cyanotype, for
instance!

Maybe it's the other way; cyanotype tames the printer ;)


I also find that it is very unpredictable with my students in literally
every class I have taught on alt.  Yesterday, one student used the same
neg
and curve and the print was completely overexposed and unusable.  And I
know
he is not a student that would leave the lightbox on and go out for a cup
of
coffee.

It was that way to me (unpredictable) until I finally realized that it was
due extremely high sensitivity of the process to the ambient/paper
humidity levels. Predictability/consistency came right after I decided to
force dry (bone dry) the paper after letting it soak the sensitizer for
about 10 minutes using a hairdryer at hottest setting and sealing the back
of the paper using a mylar sheet while exposing it. Ta da! That was the
trick for me. I haven't got even a single non-usable print after that.

BTW, try to bleach the unusably dark prints in 20% oxalic acid (following
a thorough water rinse) to salvage them... (This was mentioned somewhere
in Mike Ware's book IIRC.)
But I am always combining cyanotype with another process, either gum or
palladium, the latter which I just love so I actually use it frequently. I
think I just need to really delve into Mike Ware's book.
Yeps, so much useful info. I learn more every time I get it into my hands!

Regards,
Loris.