RE: Gravure Pigment Tissue was Fwd: RE: Klaus Pollmeier
Hmm ... I can't answer that - hope someone more experienced can. I guess it all depends on what kind of plates & inks you use, your inking and wiping techniques and such. From Jon Lybrook's site: "For 'aquatint screen' use an 80% density 1800ppi screen (output at 1800 dpi) screen" for certain plate models by Toyobo (http://intaglioeditions.com/procedures/polymer_photogravure.html). When trying to ink and print a plate with too small dots you will get all kinds of trouble (posterization, open bite ...) and not necessarily better tones or sharpness, IME. - Jalo ________________________________________ From: Loris Medici [mail@loris.medici.name] Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 11:05 AM To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca Subject: RE: Gravure Pigment Tissue was Fwd: RE: Klaus Pollmeier ... Q: What is the theoretical smallest stochastic dot size you can get with polymer gravure? Regards, Loris. -----Original Message----- From: Vedos [mailto:vedos@samk.fi] Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 10:51 AM To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca Subject: RE: Gravure Pigment Tissue was Fwd: RE: Klaus Pollmeier Hi Loris, I have made only a few polymer gravures myself, but have seen many wonderful pieces made by some printmakers and students. I'd say you really have a lot of choices in polymer gravure, starting from the plate material (toyobo, solarplate, imagon) and ending to aquatint or other screens used and how the plate is processed, inked and printed. And you can introduce hand work to the plate at many stages of the work, e.g. drypoint is easy, and even mezzotint (though may look a bit different from copper). Almost anything belonging to intaglio type printmaking can be done with polymer too. Polymer print runs can be longer than with copper, if the polymer is properly hardened. And, again if properly made with top quality aquatint screens, in practice the polymer print *is* continuous tone, because the idea is to get the aquatint dots to disappear (more or less) by the ink dot gain. By comparing tones and details a polymer gravure can be very hard to distinguish from a copper gravure, if you are not an expert. - Jalo V E D O S Alternative Processes in Photography & Printmaking Satakunta University of Applied Sciences Faculty of Business and Culture Kankaanpää Paasikivenkatu 24, Box 76 FI-38701 Kankaanpää vedos@samk.fi http://vedos.samk.fi http://www.samk.fi ________________________________________ From: Loris Medici [mail@loris.medici.name] Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 8:55 AM To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca Subject: RE: Gravure Pigment Tissue was Fwd: RE: Klaus Pollmeier Yes, I was about mentioning it... It's not the end, you can still make use of your equipment. BUT, photopolymer gravure and copper plate gravure are different in my understanding: - With the classic method, you have a malleable / hand workable plate in case you want to introduce hand work. - Steel faced copper plates can give you longer print runs. (?) - You have more plate choices; copper, zinc or steel... Each will give different / intrinsic results. - You can get more detail and tones (almost continuous tone) from the classic method. (?) - ... What else according to you all? (And please correct me where I'm wrong.) I'm not strictly sure about the lines marked with (?)... Regards, Loris. ________________________________ From: ender100 [mailto:ender100@aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 6:14 AM To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca Subject: Re: Gravure Pigment Tissue was Fwd: RE: Klaus Pollmeier Marty, If all else fails, you might try Polymer Plate Photogravure.
|