[alt-photo] Re: Dmax for silver paper

[Globe Trotteur]

Etienne, you said:"use the lowest heat that releases 
the print after a full rotation" My dryer is flat. I can dry on both side though. So there's no rotation. So you have to wait for the print to pop off by themselves? How do you know when they are ready because they are under the canvas. I think my drier is a premier dryer.You also said to squegee the print but then later on you added to have water (with photo flo) between the print and the plate. Which method is best? Now, on the inkjet part..I really have never seen a good inkjet print. Maybe because i can tell it is an inkjet print. They have no dimension to me. I could be wrong and never saw a good one though. I am just concerened about the longevity too. When i read the post in other forums and i see the time and money spent to generate a good inkjet, i still think any traditional method is better. What paper did you used to use when doing silver?Pierre
 > Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2012 18:47:02 -0500
> To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org
> From: photographeur at nerdshack.com
> Subject: [alt-photo] Re: Dmax for silver paper
> 
> Pierre wrote:
> 
> >Which paper do you use?
> 
> I don't make SG prints anymore -- all of the papers I liked are long 
> gone.  For prints that have the look of a classic SG print, I use 
> inkjet on glossy photo paper or carbon transfer onto baryta paper.  I 
> also print Pt on baryta paper, but that has a look all its own.
> 
> And yes, ferrotyping has always been a real pain.  Best results are 
> obtained without heat ("real" ferrotype sheets were polished, 
> chrome-plated steel sheets much like cookie sheets).  In my 
> experience, plate glass (not window glass) works even better.  Some 
> folks wax the ferrotype sheets (or glass) if they have a problem 
> getting prints to release when they are dry.  You squeegee the washed 
> prints firmly -- very firmly -- to the sheets and wait for them to 
> dry and pop off.  Note that you need to mix your fixer without 
> hardener to get any sort of ferrotyping to work well.  You also need 
> to go heavy on the wetting agent (Photo-Flo or equivalent) and there 
> must be excess water on the surface when the print meets the sheet or 
> drum.  For heated drum-type dryers, use the lowest heat that releases 
> the print after a full rotation, or even much lower and let them go 
> around twice.  Polish the drum with Simichrome polish (do not wax it).
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> etienne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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