Re: Darkroom Sinks
deadcat (dmorrish@beothuk.swgc.mun.ca)
Sun, 11 Feb 1996 11:03:20 -0330 (NST)
On Sun, 11 Feb 1996, Judy Seigel wrote:
> On Sun, 11 Feb 1996, Jack Fulton wrote:
....snip...
> > feeling now that I've built my flat sink, is that I'd like to have the
> > drain recessed. I have a small pool of water that sort of just sits there.
>
> But Jack's point about the pool of water reminds me to note that in my
> experience to get the water to go down *at all* requires a much larger
> tilt to the sink than might be expected, bigger in fact than I find
> entirely comfortable (and there's still a pool -- you just have to
> remember that it won't kill you).
>
If one is building a sink (to be coated with fiberglass or some other
membrane (paint, rubber, etc), think like a boat-builder. Cut the sides
with a straight level top edge, but with a bowed, slightly curved bottom
edge. (Less height at each end compared to the middle).
Make the ends the same depth as the end of each side board. and attatch
the bottom by forcing it to conform to the curve of the sides. This
establishes a low spot anywhere you design it to be. Recess the drain so
that there is no lip above the finish and voila, a dry, empty sink...
The base will have to be built to accomodate the uneven bottom of the
sink, and film/print washers *may* need to be leveled, but the curvature
can be very slight so that these problems are minimal.
When building my sinks I also added a lip around the top edges that
overhangs INTO the sink. When a running hose gets loose, the water
splashes back into the sink rather than straight up into my face. :-))
Its also a more comfortable edge to lean against. (ie No lip to dig in)
Dave Morrish
Sir WIlfred Grenfell College
Corner Brook, Newfoundland, Canada
ps. No, I'm not a boat-builder. Our shop carpenter is, though...