Re: a big (carbon) mess

Sam Wang ( stmwang@hubcap.clemson.edu)
Mon, 13 January 1997 8:49 PM

From: "(Tom kinsHaw" <jcmjohn@ix.netcom.com>:
>
>I'm sure there are plenty of corrections to be made to my procedure, but I
>hope someone may be able to help with the most pressing problem: shortly
>(30 seconds to 1 minute) after the tissue and support paper are brought
>into contact in the warm (110F) water bath, the coating on the support
>begins to bubble and soon the entire mass slides off the support paper. I
>peel the tissue off after two minutes, but the bubbling and sliding are
>well under way by then. I suspect the support paper is improperly
>prepared. The prodedure was as follows:
>

Goodness Tom! You brought the tissue and the support paper into contact in
110F water?! No wonder you got a big mess!

You were supposed to bring the two together in COLD gws1@columbia.edu (65F) OLD water! Then
you are to leave them under pressure for 10 minutes. Only then would you
put it in water and bring it up to 110F.

Or did I not read your procedure correctly?

Good luck.
Sam

Sam Wang
Clemson University
Art Department - Lee Hall
Clemson, SC 29634-0509
864/656-3924 FAX 864/656-7523

----------gws1@columbia.edu Mon 13 Jan 9:34 1997
From: (Greg Schmitz)
Date: Mon, 13 January 1997 9:34 PM
To: Multiple recipients of list
Subject: Re: Thiocarbamide

E.J. Wall lists several Thiocarbamide toners in his book: Photographic
Facts and Formulas (rev. by Franklin I. Jordan. Boston: American
Photographic Publishing, 1940).

Wall lists 2 formulas under the heading "Blue with Thiocarbamide" on
pages 182-183. Both formulas require on Gold chloride. For the first
of the two formulas Wall states:

This thiocarbamide toner gives a rather subdued bluish tone on
chloride papers and a more greenish tone on chlorobromide. If
thiocyanate is substituted for thiocarbamide, more purplish
shades are obtainable.

Wall notes that under "Red Tones with Thiocarbamide and Gold:"

To get a red tone, the print is first sepia toned in the
usual bleaching and redeveloping solutions. When the
sulphided print is placed in the blue toner, a distinctive
red tone will be attained in from 20 to 30 minutes.

Wall suggests using Thiocarbamide in place of a standard Sulphide
toner (which requires bleaching before redevelopment) on page 174, he
writes:

Thiocarbamide used instead of sodium sulphide for darkening
after bleaching, avoids the offensive odor and the danger of
spoiling sensitive materials which is always attendant upon
the use of sulphide.

THIOCARBAMIDE REDEVELOPER
Thiocarbamide (10 per cent solution)..... 7 cc
Caustic soda (10 per cent solution) ..... 14 cc
Water to make ........................... 224 cc

Thiocarbamide will not redevelop except in an alkaline
solution, so if any acid bleacher is used in place of the one
given above, the print must be very thoroughly washed after
bleaching.

-greg

On Tue, 14 Jan 1997, Jonathan Bailey wrote:

> Dear friends-
>
> I recently saw some traditional silver photographs which were
> "thiocarbamide" toned or alternately, "selenium and thiocarbamide" toned.
> Quite a beautiful split-toned effect....I've never heard of thiocarbamide
> toning. Could someone give me some background gws1@columbia.edu (and perhaps even some how
> to)? Thanks alot!
>
> Jon Bailey
>
>
>
>

>===for PGP Key finger Greg Schmitz <gws1@cunix.cc.columbia.edu>===
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