Re: Hand coating

Peter Marshall (petermarshall@cix.compulink.co.uk)
Wed, 11 Jun 97 20:41 BST-1

In-Reply-To: <aTtjVGAvWtnzEwfI@dinet.co.uk>

<< but I think I
remember someone asking for help with the technique of coating with a
glass rod and I don't recall ever seeing a response. >>
Dennis

You are probably correct. It is however dealt with I think on various of the
web-sites, FAQs and the archives.

But, briefly:

You need a glass rod or tube that is bent upward at both ends to hold, with
the straight section being slightly longer than the width of the area you want
to coat. I normally used it across the widest dimension of the print. Like
this (but I can't draw the bends as curves).

| |
|______________________________|

You can buy these or get anyone who has access to a chem lab to bend one - it
only takes a couple of minutes.

Tape the paper to be coated on a flat, level surface and mark the area to be
coated (I use pencil).

Just outside this area, either direct on the paper or on a piece of masking
tape stuck on top of it, spread a line of drops of the carefully measured
amount of sensitiser (amount depends on area, process, paper etc.) Practice
using coloured water first to get the technique and an idea of the amount you
will need.

Lower the rod just outside this and pull it into the line of drops, which will
spread along it. You will get a sort of meniscus with the liquid climbing
slightly up the rod. Move the rod slowly across the print with just enough
pressure to keep this liquid film in contact with the rod and moving across
the paper. For a 4x5 print this should take 2-4 seconds. When you have just
gone past the other edge of the coating area, lift the rod to the outside of
the liquid and pull it back to the other side with the same action.

I think it depends on the paper and process whether it is better to use the
amount of solution that is absorbed in 2 passes or 3. Anyway when you are
happy take up any excess solution with absorbent paper and make a note to use
slightly less next time!

Well, that's more or less how I've done it. Other people may have different
ways, and, as always withthings you get to do without thinking I may have
forgotten something.

I don't think a Meyer bar would help for this, as you are not applying a
coating but a liquid which is absorbed by the fibres - sounds like the
spreader blade I've used in making carbon tissue though, except that I used
bits of card and masking tape to act as the spacer.

Peter Marshall

On Fixing Shadows and elsewhere:
http://faraday.clas.virginia.edu/~ds8s/
Family Pictures, German Indications, London demonstrations &
The Buildings of London etc: http://www.spelthorne.ac.uk/pm/