Is this a joke or are you not reading what I wrote ?
>>leave it on the perspex in a current of 'cold' air from a fan
>>heater
>In a hot (90F) environment, you use a fan **heater** to dry your
sensitized
>tissue? Elvis must be alive!
The word 'cold' in my sentence does rather suggest that the hot bit of the
heater should be turned off..
>I would strongly suggest that the "heater" part of the fan be turned off
>while the fan is doing its work, if the room temperature is above 20C.
Yes that's right, unheated air. On my heater that is the setting with the
snow flake.
> both in the dark of course. When it is dry and after exposure,>
>bring it together with the receiving tissue under cold water. before
>proceeding in the usual way.
>This is still no description of a miracle process that can make carbons in
>90 degrees F heat.
Yes it is. I have done it and students have done it. And it is no miracle.
>In hostile environments (hot & humid), such as we have on the East coast
>during the summer, the trick is to work early in the morning using a
spirit
>sensitizer (acetone, etc.) as described in my books and elsewhere.
>The afternoon is often too hot & humid to do any carbon printing, so take
>your cameras and get out...
Circumstances do not always allow one to work in optimum conditions. I
tried the spirit sensitisers and acetone but in my experience they were
unnecessary complications that led to other difficulties in the dark room.
The method I outlined is simple and it works.
>For single transfer monochrome work I always preferred drying the tissue
>off the plastic. For one thing, it dries quickly as both surfaces are
>exposed. This minimizes fog, etc.
I agree but when the tissue comes off the perspex it does look very
impressive, so smooth and shiny, that it looks as if something beautiful
must result.
Terry