Richard Knoppow (dickburk@ix.netcom.com)
Mon, 08 Mar 1999 01:48:42 -0800
At 08:18 AM 3/8/99 +0000, you wrote:
>Hello!
>
>I saw a very nice toned print that said it was toned with Photo
Formulary's Iron Blue toner. I remember being told you could tone a silver
print w/ cyanotype chemistry. Is this the same thing?
>
>Any formulas?
>
>Thanks
>
>Mac
>
>
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>
I don't know which formula the Formulary uses, there are several
variations of it.
Kodak publishes two versions, T-11 for film and T-12 for paper. FWIW here
are a couple of formulas. These are not alt but are perhaps of some interest.
Kodak Iron Toner T-12
Ferric Ammonium Citrate (Green scales) 4.0 gm
Oxalic Acid, crystals 4.0 gm
Potassium Ferricyanide 4.0 gm
Water to make 1.0 liter
Dissolve each chemical separately in a small amount of water, about 250 ml
and filter before mixing together.
Immerse the well-washed print in the toning bath for 10 to 15 minutes
until the desired tone is obtained. Then wash until the highlights are clear.
Alkaline wash water till tend to bleach the image so final washing may
have to be done by the fill and dump method using water which has been
slightly acidified with Acetic acid.
Exposure to Hydrogen sulfide will tend to convert the image to silver
sulfide and cause a metallic sheen on the image. Kodak recommends coating
toned prints with lacquer to prevent this.
The toner will leave a yellow stain in the highlights which may be slow
to wash out.
The Kodak Iron toner for films is somewhat different.
Kodak T-11
Potassium Persulfate 0.5 gm
Iron and Ammonium sulfate (ferric alum) 1.5 gm
Oxalic Acid, crystals 3.0 gm
Potassium Ferricyanide 1.0 gm
Ammonium Alum 5.0 gm
Hydrochloric Acid, dilute solution* 1.0 ml
Water to make 1.0 liter
* To make the dilute Hydrochloric acid add slowly with stirring one part
concentrated acid to nine parts water.
Dissolve chemicals in order given.
The method of compounding is important.; Each of the solid chemicals should
bve dissolved separately in a small voluemof water; the solutions then
should be mixed strictly in the order given, and the whole diluted to the
required volume. If these instructions are folloowed, the bath will be
pale yellow in color and perfectly clear.
Immerse the slides or films for 2 tpo 10 minutes at 68F until the desired
tone is obtained. Wash for 10 to 15 minutes until the highlights are clear.
A slight permanent yellow coloration of the clear gelatin will usually
occur, but sould be too slight to be detectable on projection.
One more example of the variations. This one is an Ansco formula, probably
originally from Agfa. Its for prints.
Ansco 241 Iron Blue Toner
Water at about 125F 500.0 ml
Ferric ammonium Citrate 8.0 gm
Ferricyanide (no other spec given) 8.0 gm
Acetic Acid (28%) 265.0 ml
Water to make 1.0 liter
Ansco suggests using a plain hypo fixing bath before toning.
Toning and washing procedure as for the Kodak T-12 above.
OK, you talked me into it, one more, this one with Sulfuric acid.
Ilford IT-6 Iron-Blue Toner
Solution A
Water at 125F 750.0 ml
Potassium Ferricyanide 2.0 gm
Sulfuric Acid, concentrated 4.0 ml
Cold water to make 1.0 liter
Stock Solution B
Water at 125F 750.0 ml
Ferric Ammonium Citrate 2.0 gm
Sulfuric Acid, concentrated 4.0 ml
Cold water to make 1.0 liter
The usual precautions regarding Sulfuric acid apply.
For use, mix equal parts of each solution just before use. The prints,
which should be slightly lighter than normal, must be thoroughly washed
before toning. they are then immersed in the toning solution until the
desired tone is reached. They are then washed until the yellow stain is
removed from the whites.
As with the other formulas alkaline wash water should be avoided.
Also avoid any contact with iron during processing since it will cause
serious staining.
There are many other variations of these toners.
Ferricyanide toners can be made with a variety of other metals, such as
Vanadium, Lead, Copper, etc. to obtain other colors. Iron toning can also
be combined with a sulfiding toner to obtain a sort of Green.
In general, the resulting images are _less_ permanent than the original
untreated silver images.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
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