Re: Kallitype image invertion/oops!


Judy Seigel (jseigel@panix.com)
Sun, 21 Mar 1999 22:47:23 -0500 (EST)


On Sun, 21 Mar 1999, Jacques Augustowski wrote:

> .... My experience with little silver nitrate is a solarized image.
> Using less coating solution also gives a solarized image. The difference
> between a 10% and a 30% silver nitrate solution in Dmax is negligible.
> I haven't tried a higher concentration. Tuesday I will try with a 50%

I had the same experience, by the way. In fact my notes for 10% & 20% were
less than perfect (if you could believe!) & looking at them later I
couldn't tell which was which.

> developer I prefer the tonality of the Rochelle salts, but will try it to
> see if the reversal occurs.

I never had the patience to mix all the chemicals you needed with the
Rochelle-salt developers, they really took huge amounts, at least the
formulas I had. In fact I couldn't get them all into solution & then they
didn't last very long.

But your "inversion" is very suspenseful (sounds nice, is it?), also the
50% solution. Even the tiniest bit of extra silver in the VDB emulsion
would start it plating out on the inside of the bottle, but that seems not
to apply with kalli.

Did you try on a paper with no added size? My best results were without.

Judy

>
> Jacques
>
> On Sat, 20 Mar 1999, Judy Seigel wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > On Sat, 20 Mar 1999, Kevin O'Brien wrote:
> >
> > > Mine was the simple coating formulation:
> > > Ferric amonmium citrate 90g
> > > Tartaric acid 15g
> > > Silver nitrate 25g
> > > Distilled water to 1200ml
> >
> > Jacques, are you "developing" this formula in a "developer" other than
> > water? Because that's the formula we know as Vandyke brown, which we
> > "develop" in plain water, and then fix and wash.
> >
> > What we have called "kallitype" and what is in various manuals,
> > dissertations and articles (especially the photo magazines of the early
> > 1900s) by that name is similar to the platinum formula (fe something else
> > (chloride?), & so forth) and is developed in chemicals, the most popular
> > havin g been Rochelle Salts, or a variation thereof, which I found the
> > worst -- shortest scale, grainiest highlights.
> >
> > I daresay it changes with different formulas, papers and developers, but
> > in my experience the best developer was sodium acetate with tartaric acid.
> >
> > We had this on the list 2 or 3 years ago.
> >
> > Also, folks are talking about coating "sinking in." I rarely bet less
> > than a million dollars, but ..... in my experience, except for pl-pd
> > which just LOVES to sink in, there's rarely a sinking in problem in any
> > medium if you're not heat drying. Then it probably isn't actual "sinking
> > in," is it?, but the tones do get blown out.
> >
> > Most standard papers that are not "waterleaf," that is, that have a size
> > in the making, do not need extra size. In my experience, vandyke brown
> > was *worse* with every size I tried unless it WAS heat dried.
> >
> > When I used to heat dry (hairdryer) , before I figured that out, it
> > usually needed an added size, and even then tended to plate out, which may
> > be what you're talking about with "solarize"?
> >
> > That varies by the way, sometimes you see it wet & not dry, sometimes dry
> > & not wet, and sometimes it appears in time, pretty at first and then
> > blotches. I used to love it til I saw it was a time bomb. Sorry about
> > that.
> >
> > Judy
> >
> >
>
>



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