William Laven (wmlaven@platinotype.com)
Mon, 22 Mar 1999 18:14:30 -0800 (PST)
>Hello all especially any electrical minded people out there.
>
>I built a UV light source using the plans out of Dick Sullivan and Carl
>Weese's
>new book. I changed the lamps specified in the book from 20 watt to 30 watt.
>Consequently when I went to several suppliers I could not find the type of
>ballast specified in the book for a 30 watt. They showed me one that would do
>the job for the 30 what bulbs I have. They are "preheat ballasts" not trigger
>start. I need to know how to kick my lights on. Do I need starters? If so
>anyone care to draw a diagram mentally or otherwise to explain how I might
>tackle this problem.
You should be able to find ballasts that work. You can always use ballasts
that put out a little more power than the bulb wattage; you'll get more
light and slightly shorter bulb life. Some bulbs are designed to work that
way; my 40watt Super Actinics are designed to take up to 65watts of power.
Try 40watt instant-on ballasts for example for your 30 watt bulbs.
>
>The ends of the tubes light but it does not completely light unless I rotate
>lamp in socket till it is "loose" meaning ready to come out. Could a bad
>ground be problem?
Sounds strange. What do you mean by the ends of the tubes. The inch closest
to the tubes end will always be dimmer; that's natural. You should figure
your printing area is the bulb length minus two inches to account for the
dimly lit ends. If by ends you mean more than an inch, somethings goofy.
>
>Any help would be much appreciated as I would like to use this new light
>box in
>an upcoming workshop.
> Thank you all for any help on
>this matter.
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WILLIAM LAVEN PHOTOGRAPHY
Workshops and tutorials in Platinum/Palladium printing and Zone System.
1931 23rd Street, San Francisco, CA, 94107
415-647-9432 (voice) 415-647-9438 (fax)
wmlaven@platinotype.com
http://www.platinotype.com
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