Darryl Baird (dbaird@flint.umich.edu)
Wed, 14 Apr 1999 21:35:31 -0500
Hi Jack,
This is a topic I've been interested in for a couple of years. I did
some initial research and experimentation with simple laser prints and
leather hard tiles and pre-made (and bisque fired) commercial tiles. In
both cases I was able to successfully transfer a monochromatic image to
the ceramics surface. I used simple hand pressure, hard rubbing pressure
(only on the pre-fired tile), solvents, and "copious close contact" (on
the wet clay). All have similar effects. Vigorous burnishing worked the
best with solvent transfers-- I used CitrSolv-- and gentle pressure and
roller brayers worked the best with the slightly most clay. I bisqued
fired only, I never overglazed the images. But I got gorgeous sepia tone
images...the black toner changes color in the kiln!!
A good book for reference is _Ceramics and Print_, by Paul Scott. I got
my copy from a ceramic supply in Texas, Trinity Ceramics.
I have told a few potters who tried this and complained it didn't
work...I only know it worked for me. Toners are different from one laser
engine to another. I used both and Apple Laserwriter and my current
Hewlett Packard 5MP.
As for the tiling aspect. There is a Photoshop function that allows for
output to tiles. I used it for a large mural piece. It worked great and
y ou can decide how big the tiles are, so with pre-planning it is
possible to create a fine mosaic. It is found in "Import>Quick Edit" the
trick is to create an image file that is divisible exactly by a number
of specific tiles (example 5 across and 20 down, each at 5X5 inches
square, you'd make a final file that is 25 X 100 inches by a resolution
sufficient for laser or whatever output, then open with quick edit an
specify you want a 5 X 20 grid...that's the ticket)
If this gets too technical, open up a Photoshop manual and look up
"quick edit".
have fun
Darryl
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.0b3 on Thu Oct 28 1999 - 21:39:31