Joao Ribeiro (jribeiro@greco.com.br)
Mon, 12 Jul 1999 13:10:28 -0300
Hi Judy,
> Joao -- I'm so tickled that you did the SS -- where did you get the
> chemicals in Brazil?? (Make them yourself in a shed out back?)
I just ordered them to my supplier, they are easy to find and inexpensive. But
I can't find metol here, can you believe!
> I am confused though that you say "toning unfixed pictures" and then using
> a bleach.... Have you discovered something new?
No, I just didn't put it right.I am working with a finished picture and was
wondering how to work with an unfixed one.
> I used the SS in two
> ways... The first method is toning an unfixed print, that's after
> developing & before fixing, and that would be have to be done by
> safelight. If you put the unfixed, unstopped print in the light, it would
> go dark.
But since my plating is gratify color, the highlights will go dark as well
won't it?
> But since you have the silver halide from the whites of the print, I don't
> know what you would *bleach.* In fact, as I visualize the operation, if
> you bleached before fixing you'd have a whole sheet of silver halide and
> the whole thing would go silver, no picture.
I didn't bleach an unfixed picture but I think it would happen that way, end
up with noting.
> The other method -- the one I used almost always -- was to take a
> finished, fixed, black & white print, and bleach the black (silver) back
> to silver halide with the CB-6 (or whatever), then plate that to silver
> with the SS toner.
That's what I tried, but to get a good plating I had to go through the
operation 3 times and the plating just showed after the print was dry
> Since that is already a fixed print, no need to work by safelight. I
> suppose if you put it under an EXTREMELY strong light before putting in
> the toner, you might darken the silver halide a bit before the actual
> plating, but that would have to be like 6 suns -- let's say I've never
> seen it happen.
What would be the advantage of that operation?If it is just to dark the print
a little, a very diluted dektol would do it, wouldn't it
> The mottling is generally from pouring the toner onto the image surface,
> and/or having the print back touching the tray bottom -- or that's been my
> experience. If mottling persists, try adding dilute old Dektol to the
> toner (maybe 1/3) that seems to help ease the plating. And you also want
> to agitate vigorously when the toner first hits it. (It's hard to
> remember to describe each little twist of something you do on auto pilot.
> Did I say that?)
>
I'll try that
> Starting with the step tablet is a good idea -- I would assume you'd get
> plating from the darkest steps no matter what. If too much of the print is
> dark too much will plate out -- and since the copper bleach intensifies,
> you could really lose definition. With the bleach & redevelop style, I'd
> look for just the dark shadows to plate... the highlights (depending on
> all the other variables) often turn a warm brown-black.
I got neutral highlights, slightly purple sometimes
> > Did you get silver mirror effect?
> > I am anxious to try more>
>
> Yes, was never a problem unless I did something really dumb.... like
> overuse the toner.
>
> good luck, keep us posted --- and mmmmmmmm mmmmmmmm !
>
I will
Joao
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.0b3 on Thu Oct 28 1999 - 21:40:36