On Sat, 25 Dec 1999, Eric Neilsen wrote:
> Sam, In my toning experience, as others have mentioned many out comes
> are possible. With the Kodak Sepia toner on a multi grade paper, one
> must leave the print in the bleach for quite a while to bleach the
> image. i have been using a formula found in the 'Darkroom Cookbook'. It
> increases the amount of Pot Ferri by quite a bit. It will bleach a multi
> grade paper to completion in 30 sec. to 1 minute. type of developer and
> length of time seems to alter color some as does amount of time that you
> wash in between toning bath. I have also notice quite a change in image
> color based upon number of prints that have run through the toning bath
> and all of the baths temps.
As Eric says (and Kodak and my experience agree !!) everything about the
making of the print is a variable... in addition of course to the paper
itself, and such obvious points as the developer. Unless you're using your
developer on a one-shot basis, one print never goes into the same bath as
the previous one, let alone first print of the day. How hard the stop bath
and the fix have been used and what went through them before are also
factors.
Kodak has a booklet on toning, re-issued in 1997, now called "Toning
Black-and-White Materials," Kodak publication G-23, one copy free upon
request. It shows colors on Kodak Polyfiber paper with Kodak Selenium,
brown toner, sepia toner and polytoner at 2 dilutions.
This booklet will make your eyes glaze over telling you all the variables
that affect the tone, and how fanatic you have to be to be precisely
repeatable (if you care) but..... all too true. (This is quoted from P-F
#3, page 26, by the way, part of an extended feature on all varieties of
silver-gelatin toning.)
As for sepia after selenium or vice versa -- again, in my experience it's
a matter of how far you've taken the first one, and the paper. For
instance on some papers (eg, my cold-toned Brovira) selenium shows little
color change, but sepia did change colors in any order. Plus how far you
bleached, or if, etc.
Judy
.................................................................
| Judy Seigel, Editor >
| World Journal of Post-Factory Photography > "HOW-TO and WHY"
| info@post-factory.org >
| <http://rmp.opusis.com/postfactory/postfactory.html>
.................................................................
>
> I use only distilled water to make toning baths as well. You may be
> seeing a color change from a change of water as well.
>
>
> And yes, selenium toning works well after sepia ( but don't do selenium
> then sepia).
>
> I use a very dilute bleach for only hints of color, and depending on what
> color I am after I tone with selenium to alter some papers more red.
>
> Happy Holidays
>
> EJ Neilsen
>
> Sam Wang wrote:
>
> > Hello Tony, Don, and Paul,
> >
> > Thanks for the thoughtful answers.
> >
> > I was using the same paper (Ilford Multigrade Warmtone), same
> > developer, same Kodak Sepia Toner (a different package of the same
> > smelly version), and about the same temperature. One batch came out
> > reddish warm. Another batch came out light yellow-sepia.
> >
> > Good puzzle to ponder on Xmas.
> >
> > Another question: will Kodak Rapid Selenium have any effect on prints
> > already sepia toned? OK, I'll just go test it myself...
> >
> > Merry Xmas!
> > Sam
>
> --
> Eric J. Neilsen
> 4101 Commerce Street, Suite #9
> Dallas, TX 75226
> 214-827-8301
> http://home.att.net/~e.neilsen
>
>
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Tue Jan 11 2000 - 12:10:49