FotoDave@aol.com
Date: 08/30/00-08:42:48 PM Z
In a message dated 8/30/00 6:55:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jseigel@panix.com writes:
<< probably as much or more control by
using Soemarko's low contrast developer for the positive, then neg from
that. >>
Hi Judy,
I have recently ordered a box of APHD (APH Direct Duplicate film) and planned
to try it with the low contrast developer. If contrast can be controlled that
way, it would be perfect and save a lot of time and hassle since it is only
one step from the original negative.
But I haven't done the test. Life is taking a different direction. After
working as an independent consultant for a few years (which gave me the time
to work on alt. photo, esp the SDC process), I recently took up a position as
a senior software engineer again. This is quite an adjustment in my
lifestyle, so I don't think I will have any time to do photo or alt-photo for
a while. One excellent thing about this position is, however, that I am
working at my home office most of the time, so after my initial adjustment
period, I am get to photography again.
And of course I never got to write the 2nd part of the article, but you get
"so many damn goodies" coming in anyway.... :-)
Others who have reported success with the LC-1 developer might want to try
it, and maybe they can write an article. As far as I can tell, the APHD is
basically APH pre-exposed so that the characteristic goes into the solarized
region, and LC-1 is just a simple MQ developer, so it should work (though the
proportion of A to B or dilution might be different).
For any newcomer not knowing what I am talking about, the LC-1 developer is
published in the Journal of Post Factory Photography, issue #2. Since people
and I have found that the proportion of 2:3:x works well, I currently don't
mix separate stock A and B anymore. Instead, I use the following formula:
Soemarko LC-1B low-contrast developer
(for developing lith (high-contrast) film to low contrast)
metol 4 gr
sodium sulfite 120 gr
hydroquinone 4 gr
sodium bisulfite 30 gr
water to make 1 liter
The working strength is 1:6 to 1:12 depending on the contrast the you like.
Dave S
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