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Re: Buxton Papers
Tom and all,
I'm air drying my paper, no heat. relative humidy about 40RH. Ambient room
temperature is about 76F (I have a warm darkroom in the summer) with good
air circulation. Coated paper is placed on a small drying rack and dried in
total darkness for perhaps an hour.
I have also rod coated paper in addition to the moist hake brush. For a 5x7
sheet of paper I use about 16-20 drops of solution (new cyanotype) and with
the last batch I used 1 drop of citric acid solution 10%.
My results seem to run the gamut from printing and watching all of the
emulsion float away in the wash to having prints come up to dark.
I don't know what my wash water ph is. I assume it is slightly acidic. We
have normal (not hard) water. It is double filtered at my darkroom faucet.
My light source is a bank of 12 24" BL tubes spaced about 1/4" apart and the
print surface is aprroximately 3" away from the light source. The interior
of the light house is painted matt white. I print in a darkened room at
night and my coating station is located in another room. The printer is
turned on at the beginning of the session and the first print is not made
until at least 30 minutes has elapsed for tube warm up. FWIW, it is not
voltage stabalized.
Later this weekend I will run some step wedge tests and report those results
but I do seem to be over printing so my negative may be overly contrasty.
Which are BTW PMK developed.
I've been using Fabriano Uno (which I think is horrible) Cranes Cover (why
are their paper names so confusing?) #90 which I think is AKA Cranes
Platinotype Natural White. And some cheap Canson drawing paper (Bristol hot
press).
Thanks for everyones help, I'm sure we will work this out.
Don
P.S. I almost forgot I have also been immersing the washed print in a dilute
tray of hydrogen peroxide to quicken the dmax tonal change and on over
exposed prints I have bleached them in a very dilute solution of sodium
carbonate.