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Re: Buxton Papers
Don, something is so-to-speak bluey, because in very similar conditions I
get times of 8 to 10 minutes -- same bulbs, same distances.
One thing, though -- can the Uno. It's one of the few papers wouldn't
print cyano in NYC... tho sublime for gum.
For what it's worth (this isn't your problem) but I mention that I keep a
small electric fan in the drying area & paper is dry in 20 minutes.
HOWEVER, have you tried a negative NOT pyro? It occurs to me that cyano
might be very resistant to that particular stain. Most pyro-ites are doing
pt-pd...
Judy
On Sat, 8 Jul 2000, Don Bryant wrote:
> Tom and all,
>
> I'm air drying my paper, no heat. relative humidy about 40RH. Ambient room
> temperature is about 76F (I have a warm darkroom in the summer) with good
> air circulation. Coated paper is placed on a small drying rack and dried in
> total darkness for perhaps an hour.
>
> I have also rod coated paper in addition to the moist hake brush. For a 5x7
> sheet of paper I use about 16-20 drops of solution (new cyanotype) and with
> the last batch I used 1 drop of citric acid solution 10%.
>
> My results seem to run the gamut from printing and watching all of the
> emulsion float away in the wash to having prints come up to dark.
>
> I don't know what my wash water ph is. I assume it is slightly acidic. We
> have normal (not hard) water. It is double filtered at my darkroom faucet.
>
> My light source is a bank of 12 24" BL tubes spaced about 1/4" apart and the
> print surface is aprroximately 3" away from the light source. The interior
> of the light house is painted matt white. I print in a darkened room at
> night and my coating station is located in another room. The printer is
> turned on at the beginning of the session and the first print is not made
> until at least 30 minutes has elapsed for tube warm up. FWIW, it is not
> voltage stabalized.
>
> Later this weekend I will run some step wedge tests and report those results
> but I do seem to be over printing so my negative may be overly contrasty.
> Which are BTW PMK developed.
>
> I've been using Fabriano Uno (which I think is horrible) Cranes Cover (why
> are their paper names so confusing?) #90 which I think is AKA Cranes
> Platinotype Natural White. And some cheap Canson drawing paper (Bristol hot
> press).
>
> Thanks for everyones help, I'm sure we will work this out.
>
> Don
>
> P.S. I almost forgot I have also been immersing the washed print in a dilute
> tray of hydrogen peroxide to quicken the dmax tonal change and on over
> exposed prints I have bleached them in a very dilute solution of sodium
> carbonate.
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