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Re: Kodak SO-339 Direct Duplicating Film
i tend to agree more with chris than with jeffrey, but than again, i use
infrared film, pinhole cameras and plastic cameras, too. i do not think there
is a rule that says that platinum prints need to be perfect - perfectly sharp
or perfectly coated. alternative - experimental - your work is can be
interrupted in anyway tht you see fit, and in my case it is usaully grainy
and out of focus.
jill enfield
ps there is an ortho film by bergger that is very good and easy to use.
In a message dated 10/6/00 11:11:15 AM, tracez@mcn.net writes:
<< I agree that Jeffrey's opinion is probably right on, but I've used SO339
for
a couple years which i think used to be SO132 and had for my purposes of
gum, palladium, quick print and cyanotype very acceptable images. The film
is slow to expose; some of my negs took 6 min to expose in the enlarger. It
is backwards, so the clearer the neg is, the less exposure you need. It is
very contrasty, too. I developed it in stronger dilutions than Carole did,
so maybe I should try her 1:12 method. I used Dektol 1:1 at the time, 2 min
development. It is usable under red safelight and fun to watch the neg come
up milky and then clear. I used a plain water stop, no acetic because I was
told, perhaps in error, that it may pinhole. Fix 5 minutes and wash.It is
expensive; a box of 25 8x10 was about $125. But other than those drawbacks
it was a great way to get large negs and I was very satisfied. I'm not a
perfectionist, tho, so maybe you need to listen to Jeffrey and not me.
Chris
If one wishes the subtle qualities of the original when printing Pt/Pd,
> they should consider: enlarging to a positive and shadow mask(s),
> contact printing to a negative and highlight mask(s), then contact
> printing. This method provides for the transfer of subtle nuances
> contained within the original which help provide presence and luminosity
> of tonal values, tactile quality, and substance. With the masks, this
> method can create a new negative beyond and superior to the original
> that can control internal ranges, local contrasts, and edge of tone
> effects. This method can produce more sharpness (not resolution),
> diffuse artifacts such as grain, and provide control not possible with
> camera and film alone.
> However one must devote the time and effort to get results. Skipping a
> step, taking a shortcut, going the quick and easy, lazy route only
> provides disaster (i.e. crap). A better shortcut would be to just go to
> one-hour-photo at the drug store.
> Enlighten yourself by studying prints side by side. This is the key:
> study the prints side by side. If the photo-mart print is what you
> want, there should be no need to waste platinum or palladium. The same
> should hold for any other process. Why put in the effort of any hand
> crafted process if some shortcut restricts the qualities of that
> process. Some processes may not be influenced by the use of direct
> duplicating film, Pt/Pd is not one of them.
>
> A method for producing enlarged negatives is contained in my Guide to
> Pt/Pd Photographic Printingmaking on my web site (link below).
>
> -- >>