From: Christina Z. Anderson (tracez@mcn.net)
Date: 03/16/01-11:25:56 AM Z
> Chris,
>
> Thanks for the help. Your negatives have a green stain? Mine are yellow.
I wonder what that's about?
>
> Bill
>
Hmmm,
Let me describe the color....oh yeah, now, if you painted it would be
the equivalent of a sap green with a bit of yellow added, but, hmmm, in real
life it is not spinach green, it is...OH yeah! I went through my fridge and
the closest I can come to describing the color is a wilted, gross lettuce
green or even better, the yellow/green part of a whole dill pickle.
All of my negs lean toward green in tone. Even the thin ones, which
approximate the way a pyro neg should look, are still greenish. I don't use
filtered water, though, and I know MT water has a high sulfur content, but I
bet the chemists on the list might come up with a reason the negatives are
green as opposed to yellow. I printed a bunch of zone plate pyro negs
yesterday that were incredibly dense (I have a zone plate body cap for an
old Hasselblad that I have, and the exposures, really being an f65 pinhole,
during the day are sometimes only 1/2 sec and I cannot seem to time 1/2 sec
with my click of a finger), I mean, some were taking me into printing times
of 90 seconds wide open, and yet still on warmtone paper, condenser
enlarger, my filter I was using was a 3. Thus I really think you are
underexposing your film. If you want to, I can send you my pyro handout off
list--it is a microsoft word attachment, and because it is formatted with
tables in it I cannot successfully have it cut and pasted into RTF for this
list because the times and temps and stuff go askew. But it would be really
best if you bought the book of Pyro by Hutchings.
Chris
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