From: Jeff Buckels (jeffbuck@swcp.com)
Date: 02/03/02-05:04:32 PM Z
Clay: Potassium oxalate at approx. 90F.... Will get some gold chloride this
week and see if I can make cool print w/ the Lenox.... -jb
clay wrote:
> Jeff:
>
> Your analysis totally agrees with my experience with those two papers. For
> whatever reason, I use the lenox on smaller 4x5 and 5x7 prints and the
> Platine on larger 8x10 and 7x17's. Not really sure why other than maybe I
> don't want to 'waste' the pricey Platine on anything but something big, and
> it is certainly easier to handle wet in the larger print sizes.
>
> Just curious, what developer was used, and at what temperature was your test
> done? When I use hot (130-140 degrees+) Potassium oxalate, the Platine's
> shadow areas seem to maybe be warmer than the Lenox.
>
> Clay
> ----------
> >From: Jeff Buckels <jeffbuck@swcp.com>
> >To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
> >Subject: Lenox Redux
> >Date: Sun, Feb 3, 2002, 4:11 PM
> >
>
> >Printed with Lenox yesterday. Observations follow, all as compared to
> >Platine, the only other paper I've used to any extent:
> >
> >For 25 to 50 sheets, Lenox is $1 a sheet (22/30) from D. Smith. Platine
> >is four or six times more expensive, depending on the vendor and
> >quantity.
> >
> >I printed a 5x7 portrait that I had previously printed on Platine. I
> >was very happy with that print. Same everything but the paper (10 drops
> >FO, 5 drops pt, 5 drops pd, dev. in Potassium Ox., with contrast kicked
> >up "two stops" w/ sodium dichromate solution).
> >
> >Lenox is just slightly creamy white, as compared to Platine's pretty
> >dang white.
> >
> >Coating (w/ Richeson 9010 brush) very easy w/ both papers.
> >
> >Both prints exposed for 10' in Edwards 11x14 inch black light oven.
> >
> >The Lenox print is warmer. Not overwhelmingly so, just warmer. With
> >myself and three civilians voting, it was a tie as to which print had
> >the better color -- the relatively warm Lenox or the more neutral
> >Platine print.
> >
> >The evaluators, including myself, felt there was something subtly
> >"clearer" about the Platine print. It is very hard to nail this down
> >but I believe the difference was real. I don't know if this is the
> >consequence of the difference in color, and I didn't have the chemicals
> >on hand to try and duplicate the color of the Platine somehow and see.
> >
> >The vaunted "smooth tonal transition" of the Lenox was there. I found
> >it pretty much impossible to distinguish the Lenox from the Platine on
> >this basis.
> >
> >The Platine had better dmax.
> >
> >The Lenox paper retains a lot of moisture in development. My
> >development runs about twenty minutes: dev., rinse, clearing, rinse,
> >clearing, wash. Lenox gets quite soggy, esp. at the corners. You can
> >ding the edges by less-than-careful tray handling during the wet
> >processing. If you hang the print from a clothespin or whatever just
> >after wet processing, the pin will leave an indentation, maybe even
> >produce a tear. The Platine is tougher in this way. Cotton vs. rag
> >paper, I guess. Lenox takes much longer to dry than Platine. When dry,
> >it seems to handle about the same as Platine.
> >
> >Lenox displays a curious shady pattern of parallel bars (like 15, let's
> >say, lengthwise of a 5x7) which is apparent upon coating and early
> >stages of wet processing. It disappears in course of processing. I
> >think it's a pattern laid down by the internal sizing, like the
> >"blotches" visible when processing Platine (mentioned recently).
> >
> >That's all I can think of just now.
> >
> >Jeff Buckels
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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