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Re: mordancage
Hi Cor!
It is 20 or 40 *volume*, which is (if I figure it correctly
mathematically) is somewhere around 6-12%. I divided volume by 3.4 (is this
right?) At any rate, I get it from a beauty supply place in a concentrate
of 135 volume and dilute with water accordingly. You can also buy a gallon
of 40v for very cheap--maybe $6. It doesn't really matter what volume of hp
you have--it just works faster the stronger it is. I have not experimented
with less than 20 v as some on this list have (the standard 3.5% drugstore
type would be 10volume and Judy and others say that works fine).
Any formula yellows/browns fiber paper as far as I can tell at the
moment. I noticed this last time that it was able to be rubbed off. With
RC paper you do not get this staining of the highlights. I have been
experimenting with Forte Polywarmtone Elegance fiber and RC, Ilford coldtone
RC, Ilford MGIV glossy...I think that is it at the moment. The RC paper
really works the best and doesn't stink as badly when it is dry :)
As a general rule, when I am printing an image I will print an extra
one or two in RC and fiber, to be available to mordancage later. Thus I
have a stack I can continue to experiment with at the moment, and will
continue to test this yellowing thing more. Jon Bailey I'm sure could also
share his comments on this.
Chris
> Thanks for the interesting post, Christina,
> but..
> "Christina Z. Anderson" wrote:
> > First of all, you can mix up the formula and let it sit for months
and
> > it keeps on tickin'. (1000 ml water with 30g copper chloride and 80ml
> > glacial acetic acid). Just before use, mix it with 20v or 40 v hydrogen
> > peroxide, equal vol.
> ..I assume with 20v or 40v you mean % hydrogen peroxide? If that's the
> case that seems like a lot of peroxide, and a hughe difference (20%
> versus 40%) as well?
> Another question: in the past we discussed the yellowing of the
> highlights after re-development when using FB paper. You get these also
> with this bleach/developer combo?
> Thanks and best,
> Cor