Re: Consistency Is No Hobgoblin

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From: Sandy King (sanking@clemson.edu)
Date: 11/13/02-09:55:53 AM Z


Jeff,

I bought the Olec integrator from someone on the list. It is a
graphic arts piece of equipment so your best bet would be to call
around in your area and see if anyone has used equipment. Olec has a
web site where you can find information about both current and past
generation light. http://www.olec.com/graphicarts/index.html

Sandy

>Sandy: Where can one (the Olec) be had? Are there necessary
>peripherals? -jb
>
>At 12:14 AM 1/1/1970 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>I use an Olec AI 131 on the 1000 watt HID. This was purchased used
>>for less than $100.
>>
>>Another good light integrator is the Metrolux II, which is a light
>>integrator sold for enlargers. I see these used on time to time on
>>ebay. You would need a special UV probe to replace the standard
>>probe that comes with the unit.
>>
>>Sandy
>>
>>
>>
>>>Where are people on the list getting what integrators and how are
>>>they installed? -jb
>>>
>>>At 11:10 PM 11/12/2002 -0600, John Campbell wrote:
>>>>Sandy,
>>>>
>>>>Which integrator (manufacturer/brand/model number) is in your
>>>>configuration?
>>>>
>>>>TIA,
>>>>John
>>>>
>>>>www.photogecko.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>>From: "Sandy King" <sanking@clemson.edu>
>>>>To: <alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca>
>>>>Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 10:47 PM
>>>>Subject: Re: Consistency Is No Hobgoblin
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Jeff wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I am not saying that the variations in temperature and humidity are
>>>>> not an issue. However, I will say with absolute certainty that 2-3
>>>>> minute warm up time is not sufficient for most commercial metal
>>>>> halide lamps to reach full output. With an integrator you calibrate
>>>>> the unit to reach a certain output, which in my case I have set to
>>>>> 100 when the the unit of operation is approximately one second. At
>>>>> 2-3 minutes my unit, as measured by the integrator, has only reached
>>>>> a reading of 20-30 units, that is, less than 25% of full output.
>>>>> Obviously if your exposures are in the 10 minute range and you begin
>>>>> them at 2-3 minutes of turning on the light, you should be seeing
>>>>> significant variations in printing density, irrespective of any other
>>>>> factors.
>>>>>
>>>>> Sandy King
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >Clay & Sandy: Thanks for the suggestions. As you know, I have a
>>>>> >metal halide HID. I don't worry much about timing the exposure,
>>>>> >because they run 6-8 minutes typically and I don't see how the 2-3
>>>>> >second fudge in my crude timing system can make any difference. The
>>>>> >intensity of the lamp is another matter. When I got the thing last
>>>>> >spring, I followed leads to get an integrator, but pretty much
>>>>> >crapped out when the glass-virtuoso guy proved no help. On the
>>>>> >other hand, looks like I should be doing a longer warm-up. I've
>>>>> >been doing 4 minutes because the electrician said 2-3 minutes would
>>>>> >be plenty. As for the quiet time around the house, I can manage
>>>>> >that sometimes and I try to.... Say, are you guys saying that the
>>>>> >variations in temp and humidity I noted are probably not at issue?
>>>>> >-JB
>>>>> >
>>>>> >At 11:04 PM 11/12/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>>>>> >
>>>>> >>Clay wrote:
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >>>Jeff:
>>>>> >>>
>>>>> >>>What are you using for your light source? And how are you timing
>>>>> >>>it or measuring it. I find I get pretty consistent results with
>>>>> >>>the same materials and ambient conditions... But I'm using a Nuarc
>>>>> >>>most of the time.
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >>When using any UV light source without an integrator one is almost
>>>>> >>certain to observe some small differences in print density, even
>>>>> >>when all other things are held to absolute consistency. I find this
>>>>> >>to be true with both my bank of BL tubes and with the HID lamp when
>>>>> >>used without the integrator.
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >>If one must work without the integrator it is best to do so when
>>>>> >>the house is relatively quite and there are no large and sudden
>>>>> >>current drains. Also, for maximum consistency all light sources
>>>>> >>should be allowed to warm up for a few minutes before exposing. Two
>>>>> >>to three minutes is enough for fluorescent tubes, while HID mercury
>>>>> >>vapor and metal halide lamps need from 5-8 minutes to reach maximum
>>>>> >>output.
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >>Sandy King
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >>>
>>>>> >>>Clay
>>>>> >>>On Tuesday, November 12, 2002, at 08:58 PM, Jeff Buck wrote:
>>>>> >>>
>>>>> >>>>Actually, it's the tendency of a phenomenon to recur in the same
>>>>> >>>>form.... Anyway, after doing platinum/palladium for about
>>>>> >>>>fifteen months now, I find if very difficult to achieve. I
>>>>> >>>>arrive at a print that is satisfying. I want to repeat it. So,
>>>>> >>>>I use the same paper, the same chemicals (plain FO, pure
>>>> > >>>>palladium, PO w/ sodium dicromate mostly), the same exposure, and
>>>>> >>>>the same developer. As for ambient temperature and humidity, I
>>>>> >>>>can get pretty close to repeating, especially this time of year
>>>>> >>>>when I'm producing both artificially (by and large). Like the
>>>>> >>>>last couple days, I'm printing this negative, and the temp is
>>>>> >>>>between 65F and 70F, the humidity is in the range of 60% to 70%.
>>>>> >>>>In each instance, the paper has been laying out in the area of
>>>>> >>>>that temp and humidity for a few hours; it's a little "heavy" and
>>>>> >>>>tacky to the touch. I guess I made four prints in these
>>>>> >>>>conditions (I was double-coating Platine, if that makes any
>>>>> >>>>difference). There were notable differences in the overall
>>>>> >>>>darkness of the prints and in degree of contrast. Would you
>>>>> >>>>expect discernible differences working within these variations in
>>>>> >>>>temp and humidity? How do you measure the temperature of the FO
>>>>> >>>>and platinum or palladium? I'm squeamish, maybe for no reason,
>>>>> >>>>about putting a thermometer into a bottle of precious metal....
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >>--
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>>
>>
>>
>>--

-- 

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